I use this tool; https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ball-joint-installer-remover-tool/p/oemtools-27020-5-16in-fork-opening-ball-joint-separator/555664_0_0
to remove the King Pin joints.
As I recall; the tranny and rear differential should be close to the same angle if running a single piece driveshaft. I shimmed my dif and it worked great. A cardan driveshaft dose not need to be the same angle.
franklin2 please add the details of your truck to your signature. This will help us knowing what you are referring to. Click on your user name at the top right and select Signature. Fill in the details and you are done.
Your heater core is shot. Easy to change from the inside of the cab. Remove the hoses from the core and remove the glove box and you will see the heater box. Open it up and change the core. Not a big deal.
I have used Sears batteries, the good ones, in the past. I have no clue if they are still good ones to use. Get the pair of batteries at the same time so they will pull the load equally.
You should NOT have two wires going to the alternator on the threaded post! Someone is using this as a + terminal and it is NOT. Remove the wire with the greenish blue wire and move that to a + battery terminal.
Feel the heater hoses after you drive it. Are they hot? Is one hotter than the other? If yes you have coolant flowing through the heater core. The next thing I would look at is the heat control valve. Is it hot on both hoses? That will tell you if it is working.
You might add this information to your signature by going to the Black Line above and clicking your user name and selecting 'signature'. You can add a photo to your User Name.
A little more details would help a lot. What year and model? What model of tranny do you have? Two wheel drive or four wheel drive? I see you live kinda near to Ukiah. I am not a mechanic, just an old fart passing ideas along.
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