Thanks Wes.
You’re telling me all the things I don’t want to hear: thickness can be fine, but pinholes may be present; no strong patterns to predict where they might be...
That’s NOT what I want to hear.
But I want to hear it.
Yep. I need more specific information from my machinist, but at least 2 will need sleeves.
And make the trip! It’s a beautiful drive. Especially BC and the Yukon. I’ve always been coming from the east coast, so I haven’t had opportunity to drive the Cassiar (sp?) Hwy, through Bamf, but hear...
I believe you’re correct. It would be interesting to know where others have encountered cavitation. I seem to remember reading about a particular cylinder/spot...
Excellent question. I don’t know that is has been checked for round yet. 2 of the cylinders had definite wear at the top that you could feel, but overall they looked ok (as I recall. It’s been 4-6 weeks since I dropped it at the machinists). I suspect at least 2 holes will need sleeves because...
Anybody else get a sonic check or have numbers/experience to report? Like oledirtypearl86 has said, 1/4” seems pretty good, and most of the cylinders will be at least close to that even after boring...
Possible cavitation, cylinder wall flex, long term durability, etc. From this point on I can control its maintenance, so hopefully further cavitation won’t be an issue, but if the wall is already too thin...
Thanks for the input Wes.
I don’t like the idea of boring the block at all, much less .030. But my feelings aren’t based on either real-world experience or on any hard engineering/metallurgical facts/understanding. This is why I keep pestering y’all with questions:rtfm.
As to the ceramic...
So I got the results of my sonic check today and the thinnest spot is .239”. Since the test is a spot-check of many points there may be spots that are thinner. The cylinders are consistently thinner at the tops, and are well over .300” as you travel toward the bottom.
I would need to bore...
Oh, definitely 300whp: “Wish-hp”:rotflmao
Nope. bhp it is. Hopefully:rolleyes:.
Still, this ceramic one is about the same price as the Luk, so the question remains: Is it any good? Wondering if anybody has any experience with them?
Anybody have experience with these M-pact ceramic clutches? What is the reputation of M-pact or the other brands of clutches on Rock Auto? SB is too pricey for what I need. I am hoping my build makes 300 bhp. I occasionally tow 8-15k.
Finally found this thread!
Thanks IDIBRONCO, and all other contributors.
Just to idiot-proof this process for me, ‘cause that’s what I need:
• a total of 8 plugs are removed; 4 from the block and 2 from each head (thanks for the pics Thewespaul)
• 6.9 head gaskets
Did I miss anything?
As to the...
The machinist did request the flywheel and balancer for this reason. The flywheel I provided is off the donor engine (‘94 IDIT w/ auto trans) whereas my ‘92 has the ZF-5. Are the auto/manual flywheels interchangeable? I plan on a clutch upgrade. Does that factor in? Don’t know what brand/model...
Michael, 1) Glad you made it home safely. Live long and prosper!
Sorry to hear about the latest leak:frustrate I do take some comfort in talking to guys telling me how much time their truck spent in the shop over the last year—and they bought it for $60k+ a year ago.
2) Thank you SO much for...
Stripped threads, blown gaskets—Those are the specifics that sell me on your advice.
The price tag on my rebuild keeps going up o_O
I should stop asking questions— every time I do my wallet gets thinner—but... at what point (hp/torque/boost/???) are studs recommended for the crank mains? Should...
WHAT!!! They LIED?!?:Banned
Figures. If it sounds too good to be true,—sign me up!
Well almost... I keep hoping and trying.
Before I completely close the book on this, you mention they were weaker than the stock head bolts— by how much? My understanding (in much need of enlargement and...
Thanks to all for the input! And an extra shout-out to hce for adding reasons.
Balancing an engine seems like a no-brainer, but I’ve been told “all the components (pistons, rods, crank) come as matched sets (i.e.-each piston weighs the same,...) so it isn’t necessary”; of course It’s what I...
Today I ran across relatively inexpensive “ARP replacement stud kits” on eBay, ~$5-10 each stud depending on the kit and vendor. The kits I saw covered the various Powerstrokes and Cummins, so I sent an inquiry to one vendor about idi spec studs. Waiting to hear back...
I’m sure these are from...
I’m rebuilding a factory IDIT (201k miles) to replace the ailing 7.3n/a in my ‘92.
*Should I have the machinist balance the rotating assembly?*
Unless a problem comes to light most all the internals “look” good, except for two of the pistons which have a little deterioration of the top edge...
Ahhh! Smart people to the rescue yet again. A local machinist can get it done for ~$150. Hot tank everything for another $150. Bore $350 (with flex plates; but hopefully the cylinders are good and don’t need it).
If all goes well $300 will be all the machine shop gets, but it could easily go...
Approximately what does it cost to sleeve them? Presumably if one bore needs it all must be done? Unless the others are in very good original spec and one was scarred or something?
No, south-central, near Wasilla. I know y’all love it up there, but I think you’re crazy! 100 degrees in the summer, 50-60 below in the winter, and it’s flat! Y’all are crazy! Somehow it’s probably a good kind of crazy, but it’s still crazy...
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