I just read through this entire thread (sorry productivity!).
I'm only here to say: This. Is. Awesome.
Doing research, as recent as 2012, 2014, the general internet consensus is that the IDI is a reliable but slow pig and would never be considered for a race application. And here is Wes...
Since we're talking gauges, why are the pyrometers SOO expensive? Like, $200 vs $20 for all the others? Is it that much more complex?
Also, I think I know the answer, but are they just as important on NA as they are with a turbo?
Got it all back together! Going to head out and do a dump run today to test him out.
But quick question. I've now got tight balls and loose steering. o_O
All my tie rod ends and ball joints are new and tight. I imagine they'll wear in shortly, but until then, my steering feels reeeeally...
Thanks for the tips guys. I left all the bolts out overnight, and while it's not all of it, it turns out being lazy and letting it sit actually helped a bit. I'll see if I can suck any out of the fill hole using my brake bleeder tomorrow, then fill it up with fresh to at least dillute what's in...
It's the best, I tell ya!
This is my view from the end of my driveway. And winter time is the best. Sittin on my 73 ford 3000 diesel tractor to plow first thing in the morning stillness - it's pure gold!
But, I digress. Montana is full, anyways, you wouldn't like it. What with all the...
Well, here's hoping! I'll give it a shot this morning. Maybe throw a little RTV around the bolts and pray it holds.
Heck, at this point, it seems like everything else leaks down there, why not a little gear oil too. I like to think of it as my self-oiling no rust system.
Gah! Oh no!
What if I put those bolts back in, fill it up with fluid to the hole, and back away slowly....? Or am I past the point of no return by taking the bolts out?
And yes, I love living out in the woods with no one around. Let's keep the city people in the city, and let them work on efficiency of public transportation. I think it's needed in the population centers. Just don't force me to use a bus. I can't even get USPS to come up my 1.5mi driveway for a...
So, where I'm at now, I need some random help on various bits I'm working on. In no particular order:
1. How to drain the front diff
2. Does anyone use CLR to clear out a radiator? And while I'm here, where's the thermostat everyone says I need to replace?
3. In my heater box, does my blend...
Thank you all for your help! I promised pictures, but, well, my hands were REALLY greasy. I finally broke down and bought some gloves. They might be my new favorite thing in my toolbox, especially when dealing with wheel bearing grease.
So, I got it done! I went to Napa to get the KD adapter...
Oh man. I'll check that out. I've been in so much scope creep on this project, I've got wood on the ground I gotta move. I started because I needed a clutch firewall reinforcement plate.
Next thing I know, I've got a new tranny, new tie rod ends, new shocks, a new seat, new ball joints (at some...
Hahaha!
And sure enough, I couldn't get the spindle off without the slide hammer and adapter. Back to oreillys I go! I'm gonna rent the whole store before this is done.
I might also see if they have that back seal, I think I destroyed one getting the brake off. I'll snap a few pics.
Thanks...
Question for you guys, I'm knee deep in wheel grease. Reminder: 1984 F350, with what I believe to be a version of the TTB front end? Does that sound right?
I'm trying to replace my balljoints (among other things). I've got the wheel off, got the caliper off, got the tie rod end off. I pulled...
As the title said. I'm all ready to remove my t19 to replace it, but can't seem to detach the transfer case to lower it down. Any tips? Or remove it as a whole unit and then separate? I've tried wailing on it with a dead blow. I've tried hitting it with a chisel to separate, but no luck.
Any...
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