after what i went through my advice would be to yank the heads and inspect... just in case for some reason you have rust thats not allowing a valve to seat properly
i have had excellet results using SEM Rust shield. I painted a frame with it about 3 years ago and its been outside exposed to the weather since day 1 and its still shiny. it passed the same 1000hr salt spray test that POR 15 did and is half the cost. just make sure to top coat it with some...
Two bolts on top of each fender...one on bottom by firewall...one inside each door jamb...two main bolts at the frame mounts....big wiring plug..aybe a misc hose....rad hoses....a/c hoses if you got them... thats about it
the pics did not do that truck justice...its a special marbleized effect in the paint...
touch ups with a base/clear isnt bad at all... and im not saying you SHOULD prime the whole truck.....i didnt prime this truck the whole way either....to me a base clear is much easier to repair then a...
check out TCP Global
I have had very good luck with their "custom shop" brand of products. That's what I used on this truck...
I have also had fantastic luck with transstar primer. it is a sherwin williams brand I believe. ive used rattle can primer for small spots with good luck...
with my truck (cclb drw 2wd zf5 4.10's) it wasnt happy unless i was running 65-70. now rolling hills was more like 60-65... steep hills i was down in 2nd gear... that was with a way overloaded truck and heavy trailer...if i were to guess i was in the 14-16k in weight...my truck was on the...
my guess is a combo of axle beam and frame....i would be looking right around the engine cradle like a hawk. i bought an 85 f250 a long time ago that had an untimely meeting with a brick church sign that just that...not only did it bend a d50 ttb arm...it tweaked the frame about 1.5" to one side
dunno but there is a small brain box under the dash for the cruise...perhaps alldata has a procedure for testing it? or perhaps the buttons on the steering wheel are shot?
looks good./..just make sure you drill about a 1/2" hole on the inside of that shackle mount so mud and crud and drain out the bottom and not sit in there and rot it out
well today was productive. i managed to swap out all my temporary grade 2 hardware with grade 8 flange bolts and lock nuts.
drilled the holes and mounted the panhard bar bracket
here you can see the current shackle ngle and the cut out...
mounted the shock mounts...
also...
personally i think its easier to just pull the whole front clip... as long as the main bolts to the frame arent frozen you can yank the hood and front clip in about an hour. on a brick nose the harness has one big plug at the firewall and comes off with the front clip
*EDIT* it has a rust hole or two... its not perfect. it it looked a bit funny on a brick nose. the dually is getting a slant nose front clip so it may look a bit better on there
i'm not saying its wrong by any means. as long as it works and they dont bind its all good. lol
here is an old thread from when i painted it...
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,94110.20.html
once the dually is done, the samurai will be moved to the garage to get suspension #4 put...
i understand what your saying completely, however i argue that the movement in a stock F350 suspension isnt significant enough to warrant that. its not like a rock crawler where everyting moves in a large arc and in large distances. your talking small enough movement that the bushings will take...
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