Well, after doing all this work, the truck has moved on to another home. I simply did not have time anymore to put into it, and additionally didn't want to keep spending the money. Hard to own one of these and have the personality where you need to fix every little thing that might be wrong...
I will probably never know what it was. Sold it (up front about the noise) because I did not have the time or money anymore to keep working on it. In a perfect world, I would have kept it. New owner should use it more than I ever could have and hopefully will get years of good use
I put her up for sale. It's been an aggravating year and I never got to drive her much. She still has issues that prevent daily use, and my daily driver car is down for the third time this year (it took 19yrs but the car is finally starting to show her age).
I'll take a huge loss, and I'm...
I wish I hadn't gotten rid of my old push rods. Sure someone on here has some though. I could send you my old lifters. Imo they were beginning to show signs of wearing out, but at least a few of them are immaculate. Just sitting in a box on a shelf.
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All of the above has worked for
me. Even used simple green in a bucket with a sponge, scraper, and wire brush when my only option was a place that made you clean everything up.
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I used the copper spray gasket on all the paper gaskets I installed, and the exhaust manifold, during my rebuild. Had never used it before period, but wanted something cleaner than rtv that would hold things in place and help with old surfaces. I did not use anything on my heads though. Engine...
You can modify a 7.3 head to open the coolant ports like the 6.9. Either one of those engines put together like you want would work equally well in my mind. On the 6.9, if you turbo be aware of the smaller head bolts. Mine did this when I hit ten pounds of boost; it's now rebuilt with arp studs...
If pulling the heads isn't worth it, why not try the water pump next. I'm trying to think what's down low where three gallons would make it run out, other than maybe oil cooler or water pump. I doubt it would be up to the heads as that point...
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I like your logic. Just thought I'd throw that out there. The guys on here who have done it will help you create a setup you like and can trust
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I'll throw the built 460 option out there. They can make a ton of power especially de-smogged. Might not even take a ton of work to fix that motor up. But that doesn't fix the brakes. Can't speak to idi's towing that much, but lots of guys with good experience have commented above. Another...
I would say needing the longer glow is fine. Mine down here in Florida (factory controller) on 88 degree days still glows for a decent amount of time. 10-20sec easy.
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I will correct myself because I have a 6.9 and just realized yours is a 7.3. You would have a totally different fuel/water separator and it would not be on the firewall there like mine. I really don't know what might have been there (if anything) on yours.
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The sensor you identified as the coolant temp sensor, should connect to a connector wire in that area and goes to the fast idle and timing advance on your injection pump. It does measure coolant temp but only for those two purposes.
That single wire near your voltage regulator looks like one...
Thanks for the pic! While they may not be my favorite motor, the reality is that those 300s are stone cold reliable, simple, and cheap. Probably should have been what I bought when I got my current truck; this one is overkill for what I need. I have a lot of respect for the 300. Glad to see...
Interesting, I must be typing something wrong into craigslist. That first one is tempting. Any idea what transfer case that is? (If you know I won't have to look it up and guess; very new to this). I very well may go after that tomorrow (for the right price; not that his is bad but...) and...
What'd ya do with the 300? Keeping it around to fix or sold? If you don't mind me asking. And looks like a pretty good find
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I did, I'll add them to the thread. Although I'm planning to just do the one bearing versus a full rebuild. The pictures on Rockauto show a specific bearing, I'll try to get it on here too, and then take pics of my trans whenever I find time to work on it.
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Alright, so it looks like this thing did come with a ball bearing input bearing. Answered my own question, but can't delete the post.
I'm looking to drop everything, expecting to replace the throwout and input bearings, but inspect and replace anything else that I find suspect (hopefully...
If you have one, take a mechanics stethoscope while the engine is running and listen around each cylinder. Should be able to narrow the noise down to one or two that way and then work from there.
Personally I would listen first (and even if you don't have one, stethoscopes aren't super...
Too bad you're up north. I'd consider it as I could use some of the bigger parts too. Thanks for the diesel fender emblems though!
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Nope definitely not. A part of me was disappointed when he said it survived. Not that I want anyone in a wreck, but also not like you would even feel it as you drove over a Prius...
Glad it's back on the road and it didn't catch you in a worse spot
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Bump. Someone knows what I need to do if it's the input bearing (which I'm pretty confident it is). Ie how hard of a job, if I need to do a full rebuild or just that one bearing, etc. Spare no details.
Plus exposure maybe someone who has a good t19 sitting around after a zf swap will see this...
Looks like the one I took off. I don't know of any significant block changes. Heads interchange between them all, can't see the timing cover being any different.
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