If your pulling heads off, it’s common to cut off 5 thousandths from the head surface, making sure they are within specs. Decking block is mostly done when entire engine is being rebuilt. Not necessary when putting new HG’s on
It depends on your ability & if you have a cherry picker. I had both heads off (in frame) in about 2.5 hours. Had them back on & engine running in 4hrs. That was second time doing it in frame so it was easy for me. An engine hoist is a must.
It really comes down to how far you want to go with...
Every 6.9 & 7.3 that I have seen that has not been opened up has had weeping headgaskets. That is the #1 problem with these engines imo. Blowing headgaskets.
When I bought my truck, headgaskets seeped coolant & oil for years before I put new gaskets on during turbo installation.
Long story...
That’s pretty slick. Looks like clutch is electronically activated. Far better than an actual electric fan and probably a hell of a lot better than what our rigs have stock. Most semi rigs have something similar
Hmm, well I bet a 4 row champion would be even better in your application. Wouldnt go with an electrical fan. They are junk and don’t move enough air for these beasts.
I would say one of the best things that can be done for a 7.3 is removing those rear corner freeze plugs in cylinder heads...
If you are referring to head studs, this may be true with a 7.3 idi, not a 6.9. Your on borrowed time when you turbo a 6.9 without headstuds. At the very least, headgaskets and bolts should be replaced if your not going to use studs when you turbo engine.
One of the weakest links with these...
Dab some grease on the end of drill bits. It’ll help catch the metal shavings from falling into the exhaust system while drilling.
If your running N/A, I wouldn’t even worry about it. The exhaust will blow all the shavings out the tailpipe.
You heard wrong. That’s all a bunch of made up junk whoever you heard that from.
You can turbo an N/A engine without any problems. However, it is strongly advised that you replace headbolts (preferably ARP) & headgaskets when making the swap. These engines Achilles heel was definitely the...
You overtorqued those headbolts. If ARP says 80ft lbs, that’s what it should be. Wrenching them down only ruins the bolts, doesn’t benefit head gasket clamping force either.
They would know since they kinda engineered them.
AEM is one of the best from what I've heard. Had one on my idi when it was turboed. My Jeep came with a K&N cold air intake and I want to eventually put an AEM dryflow on it. Not a big fan of K&N filters because they don't filter well unless you have a sock on it.
Spectre brand air filters are junk. A member on here ran one for a while until he discovered piles of dust in his intake system.
Change it with something like an AEM dryflow filter
If your engine is turboed it also went thru that. Probably boogered up the hot side wheel. I bought a turbo a few years back with a gp tip that had passed thru it. Ugly lookin stuff when that happens.
Could have been prevented if the PO spent another $2 on motorcraft glowplugs.
Sometimes it's...
I think a freshly rebuilt or new engine should be oil primed before it's first initial start. After that, engine oil will leave a thin film behind, offering protection until oil pump catches up. And after an engine breaks in, metal parts have worn together which means friction is drastically...
I've always used return line kits from Russ. Hell, I've even reused the caps & changed out the viton o-rings and never had a leak. Good quality kits won't leak & should last at least a decade
Buy a set of D code stanadyne injectors from Russ aka typ4. They are way better than any autoparts injectors, and even better than delphis. I've had them all and can tell you stanadynes are the best.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.