Probably condensation. Never heard of fuel pouring out of a diesel exhaust system during startup. It just doesn’t happen.
If you think your engine is hydrolocking for some reason, let it sit overnight then remove all glowplugs. Crank engine over in the morning & see if anything comes out of holes.
That’s a little high. You probably have a clogged oil cooler. After that many years of use, pretty much all oil coolers become clogged with deposits at some point.
What he said. I’ve done this a hand full of times as well. It’ll be much easier and you’ll be able to do a much better job if you have the engine out & on a stand to work on.
The stock oil cooler is plenty sufficient for these engines. Really no need to put on an additional oil cooler. Just as long as your engine cooling system is up to par, I wouldn’t worry about it.
Agreed. Unless you plan on running a synthetic oil and changing it every 20k or so, don’t see the need in using a big old filter like that.
A FL-1995 is plenty big enough, and works quite well without cutting up your truck to make it fit.
I bought the last new old stock 3.08 ring & pinion for the sterling a few years back. The differential shop who I had put them in couldn’t believe what he was looking at. Didn’t even know they existed.
Obviously I don’t think the truck will tow 10k all that well, but it has been towed with & it...
Sold my truck to father in law a while ago but he’s getting a consistent 18-19mpg empty cruising down highway. Rebuilt n/a 6.9 & C6 with 3.08’s in rear end.
For one of these trucks, I would have to say no. That’s just my .02 though. Some might think otherwise.
Especially if you plan on using your truck as it was intended for, I wouldn’t trust wheel spacers. Many tire shops won’t even install them nowadays. Spacers put an extra load on the wheel...
Had the same thing happen to me when I put a reman starter with my new engine last year. It would click loud which means it was making contact with the flexplate, but didn’t have enough juice to turn engine over. Went back to Azone and replaced the direct drive starter with a Mitsubishi style...
Be careful with those filter head mounted gauges. Had a cheap one on my rig and it lasted about 10 hours. Left me stranded on side of road in middle of nowhere after it broke & spewed about 10 gallons of diesel all over engine compartment. Scary stuff and can’t believe it didn’t ignite.
Sounds somewhat normal to me, considering it’s been sitting for 4 years. I’m sure it’ll clear up after adding some diesel fuel cleaner to a fresh tank of fuel. Might be a good idea to change that fuel filter as well & filling it with sea foam.
If it continues, might need to look into...
Tried around 6 btdc and my rig ran ok. Then I timed it to about 9.5 and that made a huge difference in power. 8-9.5 is recommended timing numbers for these engines. They seem to run the best.
If your engine has absolutely no fuel leaks, this is a classic symptom of injection pump heat soak. Especially when you have stated that the engine starts just fine when it’s cold.
As engine warms up, diesel fuel thins out and tolerances expand within injection pump, causing your hard start...
Yeah, if the rear end sits level with the front end it looks ok.
But when they nose dive, they look like hell. That’s how mine sat and it looked dumb lol.
It’ll be hard to find a manual transmission in any new truck these days. Super duties don’t even have that as an option anymore. With the advanced technology of automatic transmissions nowadays, they are far superior than a manual IMO. Towing a 15k load behind me from a dead stop is no problemo...
Those are what you want. I put those on my f250 and it bumped up the saggy front end by about 2 inches. Rode a hell of a lot better too and felt more stable going down the road.
Those are olives. The old ones can be a pita to get off.
If they don’t come off easy, soak them in brake fluid.
If they still don’t come off, get a little bottle torch and burn em off.
Any why would they? That would be like me asking them to leave the stock muffler & air intake off for a discount price because I want to put a performance system in it. Dealerships have to draw the line somewhere...
They will decrease underhood temps and might make the turbo a bit more efficient.
But like mentioned, I think the most important thing that can be done for turbo longevity is letting engine idle for a couple minutes after it has been run hard. That’ll ensure that the turbo cools down & will...
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