My setup - custom dash assembly on the 85. Oil sump temp is the gauge below the dash on the left, and boost is a 2" gauge sitting on top of the dash out of view to the left. I also have a ~1/2" red light on the center trim area (flat section above the radio) that is setup as a master caution...
Just take it down to the hardware store and find one that fits. Somewhere around 1/4" IIRC. Just needs to be a bit smaller than the hole to move freely.
My experience running without one is that it will double to triple the time it takes to warm up and will get cool (140-160) at idle or...
This, and Mel has been a staunch supporter of the idi community from the get go. Can't say personally how much the other 2 support the community, but I know Mel has been involved in the forums, idi rallies, etc etc since just about the invention of the internet. My impression has always been...
Ceramic coating does make sense. The overall heat flow through a piston can be broken up into a series of discreet heat transfer events - convection from hot combustion gasses to piston; conduction through the piston; potentially conduction through piston/cylinder interface and hence through...
Not an expert, my my thoughts are that it's technically more difficult and isn't going to give much benefit. The piston is typically the critical part since it has no direct contact with the coolant and a substantial thickness of material for structural reasons, plus a large exposed surface...
I'd be cautious doing that - it's generally recommended to match bearings & races, and even if you get new bearing at the same time you really want to match the manufacturer of the bearing/race.... also don't know if the installed race is from a company that's any good of if it's some cheap...
I would go with rock auto - they have a pretty good variety of brand/prices and even their cheap stuff IMHO is likely to be better than Kragen/Autozone level. I check kragen's website, and the only thing it looked like they have in their house brand which I don't trust much.... Same price...
Increased oil flow woln't get you much IHMO - ceramic coating the piston tops is a much better way to help with heat load as this reduces the heat going into the pistons to begin with. On my current build I find that the oil sump temp doesn't rise as much as the previous setup and I attribute...
That part isn't bad, it's the price tag on the stupid buggers that got me on the first and only engine I did with them..... figured they'd be like $5 or something - nearly had a heart attack when i found out they were somewhere north of $50/ea. :puke: Think I wound up getting them form IH for a...
No shortage of gears there... :rotflmao Not sure how hard the 203-1356 setup would be though. I had thought at one point about using the gear reduction out of a 1345/56 to make a doubler in front of a 1345/56 case. Actually seems like it wouldn't be too hard since we now know that the...
I had thought about this - even with the DNE flush on the rear of the t-case it adds a fair bit of weight out there. I was planning on putting in some sort of support to take that load off the trans - probably some sort of spring suspension that will support the weight of the DNE but still allow...
True.... but it's knowing the right questions to ask that's critical! LOL Seem to recall i asked something about what cases would work and was pointed to the slip yoke 1356, but may have been on a different board.
Looked at picture online, looks like it may work, and seems to have the same...
Cross posted off the pirate board - guy is Redding is giving away a decent looking tan 86 F250 (I-6 2wd) - no engine or trans, and it looks like a semi floating rear, so lighter GVW but still looks like lots of nice body parts. Looks like he'll let you come take parts off of it. However, he is...
Well, very interesting.... I thought the fixed output 1356 was only on a very few 1 ton trucks, didn't realize the bronco used it. May have to make a trip down to the local junkyard and see if I can scavenge a bronco shaft to play with.
Naturally I figure this out after doing all the fab...
Interesting. I'd be curious if the yoke would fit on a standard trans output shaft - wouldn't be surprised if the difference is the yoke and the shafts are actually the same.
If I had a fixed yoke case that would certainly be a good way to go, but unfortunately I don't and I haven't seen one...
Quite possibly. Undoubtedly it's been done before without any issue, and I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just something to be noted. My main point is that using an add on extra tire to make a SRW into a DRW is something rather different than having a true DRW rear end, and this could have...
My gut feeling is it will be a significant difference.
The load will be distributed across both tires since they will both flex until it's more or less even. This load will essentially act through the center of the tire(s) - in the SRW version this center is roughly where the center section...
Length is a concern - I had wanted to use a 1345 for this reason, but the shaft design wouldn't mate - different splines and different spline design. I thought I could use a GM spec DNE since the spline count matched, but the spline shape was still an issue. Not sure what the fixed yoke case has...
Concur, I do not see a reasonable way simply installing an intercooler would cause that much change.
3" intake should probably be sufficient. I'd personally try for 3.5, but again unlikely to make much difference. Looks like a fairly straight smooth flow as well, aside from the turbo inlet...
Cruising empty 65-70 around 450-550*, ~5 psi boost.
Pulling ~10k 600-900* under most conditions and up to about 1050-1100 under full throttle, ~19 psi boost.
This is pre turbo.
After some 5+ years of contemplating this project I've finally actually gotten somewhere. :rotflmao
The goal is to mount a US Gear/Doug Nash dual range box somehow behind the t-case so i can use a 2wd box instead of trying to find that 1 in a million 4wd unit. This also saves having to modify...
Question I have is how much of the added stability of a dually is from simply having 4 rear tires and how much is from the stiffer springs? Adding a pair of tires will make the wheelbase wider, but woln't change anything else - might help a bit but it's more of a band aid fix than anything else...
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