Seems like there's 2 different USG versions. Mine has the same motor as the DNE using wires out the front just with studs through the cover instead of a limit switch. Yes, the style you have with only 2 leads would be harder to convert, but as long as the side cover is the same you could still...
It should. I'm pretty sure that how I set mine up when I put it back together. The USG setup has insulated studs on the cover plate for the connections, but I'm 99% sure they're in exactly the same spot to fit the switch assembly, you'll just need to make sure the insulating sleeves/o-rings are...
Yes, the motor should work. The one I have fits physically although it did seem to turn a bit faster than the old one - not sure if that's a design difference or simply new vs worn.
Tim, the motor is the same, the difference is control via a limit switch (DNE) or a timer (USG). What you need...
Well, to follow up on this it hasn't worked very well - still have issues with the pinion not engaging completely and had issue with the starter solenoid 'relay' not closing all the way. Was a good idea but doesn't actually work well in practice, should have just gone directly to doing the ring...
1) Yes, just use lots of duct tape.
2) As much as you can put it in.... how long it works for is another question.
There's a search function... it's not hard to use. ;Poke
No relation to the turbo oil feed. That port is off the far end of the lifter galley, but on the driver's side. If there was a low lifter oil pressure issue I'd expect lifter clatter long before guide wear issues.
How did you check the play? The only accurate way is with a dial indicator...
I strongly recommend you check the t-case while you're at it. The random popping out of gear is same symptom I had with mine for a few months until it finally hit permanent neutral on me going down the freeway - not a fun adventure. The oil pump in mine spun and the hi/lo shift fork was worn so...
If you use assembly lube it should be fine. My preference is to crank the engine without fuel or glow plugs until it gets oil to everything either by pressure gauge or just by leaving a connection (turbo works well) loose and looking for oil flow from it.
The ones that broke it were bilsteins! :rotflmao
Glad you posted though, looking at your thread pointed out that I should have replaced the u-bolts when I was in there. Where did you get yours from?
How were you able to get them out? Putting them in is easy, it's getting them out in reusable shape that is more difficult. You may be more talented than I, but I certainly had no luck managing it.
IIRC the split is early 85, somewhere around a Jan 85 build date. Both my 85s were dec 84 build and had IIRC engine sn below the cuttoff.
I believe the 'sidewall ribs' change at sn 173xxx listed above is the block heater fix, so if your engine sn is above that you should be good.
I don't think the block is really much different beyond the reinforcing around the block heater port.
However, the press in oil jets is a major issue - price out a set before putting any effort into an early block. There's no effective way to remove and reuse them, so you're pretty much...
The funny thing to me is that both broke. Not sure if it happened at exactly the same time, but I think I'd have noticed one broken and one not, so that makes me think they couldn't have been too far apart.
Poor design, I agree.
The crawler is a fun little toy. One of those things I...
Had a front end rattle for quite a while I was never able to really figure out. (mind you I never really tried that hard) Finally took a close look at the shock mounts and realized the problem......
Both sides are the same, so I never really noticed. Explains the rattle though. $64...
Trial fit in the truck today, looks like it will actually work decently. Had to clearance the cab floor a bit (1/2" or so) and had to pull the exhaust over a bit. Will have to put a mount on the exhaust there somehow to hold it over but that shouldn't be a major problem. No issue with the fuel...
Tangent
I decked my pistons 0.015" to support higher boost. My numbers show that's good for about a 1 point drop in the CR, down to about 20.5. I think some folks have taken more, however you can't go down too much before it starts becoming very hard to start. It is also possible to weaken...
I'm not worried about resistance to torque, I'm worried about frame flex not being exactly around the axis defined by the mounts. If any sort of twist/flex happens that is not exactly around this axis the mounts would move laterally relative to each other, hence why I want to ensure there's...
I'm not sure if the IH setup would really be that much easier in the end. If you have a doner rig, I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to get it setup - not really that much interface between the engine and chassis is there? The IH harness may be simpler, but you'd also have to figure out...
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