Never said they were lying.... but being able to "feel" the fan engagement doesn't necessarily correlate to there being enough of a power drain to cause performance issues. Further, being able to feel it indicates to me a concern in the function of the clutch, since it should not suddenly lock...
To the best of my knowledge there isn't any definitive information out there for the fan volume, everyone just makes up numbers. It's going to depend on fan rpm (a function of the degree of clutch lock up and engine rpm) which makes it hard to measure. I have a plan to get some actual...
Ford & IH water pumps are the same threads. To the best of my knowledge, there isn't any other options out there. A decent machinist could make a new water pump shaft with a RH thread, **but** then you have a problem with the fan unscrewing unless you changed everything around to also reverse...
That's mine. The adapter part was because the unit I got was mislabeled and was actually a PSD clutch with the 1.25-16 RH thread so I had to bore it out and put in an insert. There is a 1.25-18 LH option out there that's for a DT466.
Electric fans work okay most of the time for most people.... problem is that small amount of time where they don't. If you're in Alaska you're problem fine even running heavy.... or if you never pull heavy even in the desert you should be fine. But can you say for sure that you'll never be...
There is one that fits. DT466. Horton makes one, though I forget the part number. Problem is that it looks like you'd need a different fan as well due to backspacing. I found a different brand electric clutch that works with the stock fan, though it was pricey. ($300+ IIRC) But, it's awesome to...
Take a look at DelCity - they are a good source for reasonably priced electrical parts. Pretty sure they have a small fuse/relay panel. Wire it through a relay switched by whatever you want and go from there.....
Maybe not, but a turbo IDI will give it a decent run for it's money!
I think my setup with the HX35 is pretty close to comparable with a later stock 7.3 PSD in power.
IDIs are simple, easy and cheap. No computer to f things up. No emissions junk. Beyond that, I've already got one, it's...
You sure the later SD ones have been used? :confused: I know the early (87-94?) F-Superduty (later F-450) units are a common swap and a bolt in, but I do not know of anyone using a later unit. What I recall from when i had looked at it was that the bolt holes didn't line up and there may be...
Looking at various junkyard rigs the other day it actually *looks* as if the cables are the same or very close between the gas and diesel engines. At least worth double checking.
Not only would it be very difficult, but also pointless. This is done on very high boost engines (as in 50+ psi) to help seal the fire ring - essentially it's doing the same thing as the head gasket. You're not going to get anywhere close to that kind of boost on an idi, or if you did head...
Even if it doesn't, the fittings are almost certainly all generic - probably a 1/8 NPT thread on the gauge and I think the same on the intake port. All you need is to connect the 2 - parts stores typically have an oil pressure gauge piping kit for about $10 that has the 1/8" plastic line and...
Personally I would go with the ZF.
I am not real fond of the GV for a truck application, though I'll admit that I've never owned one nor worked with one much, and many have had good luck with them.
GV design was originally a Laycock overdrive built for mid 60's British sports cars and...
The shaft failed first and that's what wrecked everything else.
Hard to tell from the pics but it looks somewhat like a fatigue failure. Hard to say for sure though, and hard to say what initiated it without better pictures.
Whoops, just realized this was a 2 year old thread. :rolleyes:
None. Do whatever you feel like. Anything over 3 or 3-1/2" is not doing much. No need for backpressure in a diesel, nor anything else fancy. Just stick a chunk of pipe on there and go.
Does rust get bad enough to cause problems with u-joints? I wouldn't think a relatively large thick section like a u-joint or yoke would be much effected by rust - I'd expect thinner sections like the body sheet metal, frame, etc to be more effected. U-joints are also going to be spinning which...
Piston nozzles are only an issue for early 6.9s. I believe the change was around sn 225xxx, something like mid 85. I wouldn't rebuilt a press in block, but shouldn't have much trouble finding a bolt in 6.9 or 7.3 core.
I haven't really seen much issue with parts. The chassis parts are all...
Sounds like the bearings would be okay, but since you're in there anyway may as well check to be sure.
I'd be worried about those 2 pistons - if it was under any real load those 2 likely got warm enough to scuff some..... The oil cooling absorbs a significant fraction of the piston heat -...
Shouldn't effect the PS system - it's all under positive pressure. The MC could be lower, but the reservoir needs to be above everything else since it's open to the air. Probably helps to some extent with air removal from the fluid if the MC is higher than the wheels but I'm not sure if it's...
Sounds about right. Most of the time weird random electrical issues, especially the 'xxx only works/doesn't when i turn xxx off' type are ground issues. Had a car come in once where the motor would immediately die if you hit the hi beams but was completely fine otherwise. Was a bad ground that...
Remove 1 or more of the injection lines from the rear of the pump. Loosen the rest at the injectors. Remove the return line fitting assembly from the top cover (that is, all you should have left is the blank hole into the pump) and crank the engine. You should see significant fuel flow out of...
Spec are in the linked thread. HX35 on a 6.9, 0.015" decked & coated pistons. Turbo mount and piping is all custom.
Exhaust housing is very similar though a bit bigger. The outlet centerline is about 1/2" higher IIRC which means you'll need to modify the downpipe. Also, the outlet flange, at...
I'd plan around 5k. My typical light weight is about 6-6.5k, but that's with tools and whatnot, IIRC the actual empty truck weight is around 5.5k. Add some for the CC, and then take off ~1500 for drivetrain, but remember that any random engine parts left in the bed and whatnot count against...
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