I bought mine from Oreilly and its a 2 row, however ; that 2 row is thicker than my factory 3 row. I flushed the coolant, dropped a motorcraft thermostat in it and new hoses. So far so good, although I did get a 195* thermostat it doesnt seem to get quite that hot...... this winter will tell...
RetiringColt , I do not hear any hissing when applying brakes. I may have to pressure up ( 5#) on the system and check with soapy water....I have decent brakes, I just get one good application then the next one is not nearly as smooth and soft.
i have 22" of vacuum with the engine running. im thinking a vac cum leak somewhere... It it appears the vacuum booster is OEM from 1989 so theirs that.... I cant a leak but my question is this: should the booster/ vacuum system go to ZERO as soon as the engine is cut off? secondly , how do...
Is thee one standard sized vacuum brake booster for F-250 with 7.3 idi? I get about one good stop out of my '89 before the pedal starts stiffening. The master cylinder is new so Im think along the line of a new booster....... any ideas from the gallery??? su amigo: mexicanjoe
Does anyone within driving distance of west Texas have a radiator for a '89 f-250? Old Lulu Belle decided that Saturday was a good day to develop a leak and vomit green coolant all over my prized tumble weeds...Stop leak didnt work , so after 30 years it looks like I am in the market for a new...
south of here they are so thick, you cant help but hit one... everyone here has a "deer story" to tell......I use pencil beams when there are no vehicles approaching me at night. At times you can go 20 - 30 miles without seeing another vehicle......years ago I can remember driving 50 + miles...
IDIBRONCO I found the burned wire in the 12 wire connector just between the starter solenoid and the engine..... i found it burned in two so I replaced it and now mexicanjoe is very happy! Took a lot of time with a voltmeter and paperclips to figure out which wires were toast...... My next...
I still dont understand why I have less than 9 volts on some of the wiring coming from , what appears to be the firewall. If it didnt have current then I know which circuit had a short. But when you show 6 to 9 volts on a digital meter that tells me either a resistor is in line or something is...
Blower works real good, so I ran a switch to the IP.... here’s the kicker: the 12 wire connector on the passenger side looks like it got real hot .. so I’m gonna take it apart and clean it....... 20 hours of working on it I’m gonna give up and take a break
Ok guys here it is: I went ahead a threw a jumper to the front solenoid wire from the battery and VOILA! It runs, so now to figure out where my short is. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the GP relay. Thank you guys so much! There really isn’t another forum that even compares!!!
Power to headlights and cab and dash lights. Glow plug lights activate then turn off like normal . My question is: which of the wires going to the top of IP are energized when you crank and run the engine. Right now I have NO power either starting much less when the key is on the “run...
Right now I get no power to each of the electrical connections to the driver side of the injector pump... NONE! The engine cranks over but does not fire up....
Earlier I accidentally ground the hot side of the alternator (not good).
Now there is no juice to the IP.... HELP!!!!
Drive down to Oreillys or
Autozone.. they have them in the HELP! or DORMAN section. not too bad to replace, i did mine last year. Remember to lubricate the actuator with lubriplate or graphite before installing
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