With the fuel heater, it's common for people to delete it because they commonly leak and people seem to have no issues with it gelling up.
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The factory gauge is a dummy light disguised as a gauge. It will not show proper oil pressure and will move to one spot as long as oil pressure is at a minimum threshold or greater. The only way to tell true oil pressure is an aftermarket assembly.
Edit: that gauge should work. I prefer the...
This is an example of a bullet connector. If you decide to go this route I recommend getting some 4mm silicone vacuum hose to use as a band to hold the connector onto the glowplug. When I built my own glowplug harness I used the connectors only first and they would wiggle loose over time. The...
For the 7.3 glowplugs it uses a bullet connector on the glowplugs. The wire gauge I would recommend for a harness repair for short runs i believe 14 gauge will work but the larger the wire the better.
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Might wanna check the baffle in the hole where the turbo drains at. For a turbo there needs to have holes poked into the baffle to allow the oil to drain. Make sure not to drill it though to prevent metal chips in the engine
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That's where the glowplug controller is located. I would be willing to bet either some fluid on it got hot and ignited or the controller shorted out and caught fire
was the fire in the front of the intake or the back? turbo or na? it was most likely a backfire from the either or maybe a shorted glow plug controller/ wiring depending on the location of the fire.
Might check for voltage at the b+ terminal on the alternator to see if there is a voltage drop there, then check for voltage at the spliced wire. If you have correct voltage in both spots it's likely a bad alternator
Also make sure there is a good ground on the case. If too much crud and rust...
The suction switch will turn on a light in the cab if lift pressure after the filter drops too low like when the filter plugs, the return check valve is to help bleed the air out of the system when the filter was removed
Yeah, gonna have to replace the whole ac box in the engine bay because it got too hot and burned a big hole into the side, with the engine my plan is to install studs, do the cooling mod with the 6.9 head gaskets and inspect the main bearings for wear and if its worn most likely do a rebuild.
Continuing the teardown are there any common areas for potential frame cracks to be on the look out for? Just wanna cover all my bases when its torn down.
Compression brakes are also known as Jake brakes or engine brakes and uses the compression stroke of the engine to slow the truck down by dumping the compressed gas at tdc into the exhaust
As far as I know there was never any compression brakes available for these engines. The closest thing would be an exhaust brake which is on the exhaust pipe.
Its possible the wire going to the fuel shutoff solenoid is damaged and is losing connection when it fires up and the engine moves. I would connect a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid to bypass the whole electrical system just in case that's the issue.
Make sure to carry a fire extinguisher larger than 1lb and if you have a turbo don't overlook fuel/oil leaks on the back of the engine. I'm pretty sure either oil or fuel was leaking onto the up pipe which got hot when I was climbing a hill and ignited.
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