For the dipstick adapter, this is an option for an upgrade if desired especially if the original one ended up being bent.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789TJTKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2OLrFbJ2PMVR7
I know you said the ip is new however I would check it by pouring cool water on the ip when it struggles to start and see if that made a difference. If it does its likely you might have a dud of an ip.
I havent had the chance to run my truck enough due to me rebuilding it to say one way or another. If you are on a time constraint however I would say get the parts store pump.
Yep coolant out of the weep hole means a bad water pump. When you replace the water pump, its a good idea to replace the thermostat too. For the thermostat only use motorcraft, and for the water pump I personally like the flowcooler one, it has an upgraded impeller to allow better coolant flow...
This is what I'm gonna be using. I can't say much about how well it works because I'm still working on my truck but it was an easy install
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00017YYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u-yqFb93ETP7C
when i replaced my front main, I had the timing cover off which made it easier. So long as you have a plate with a hole cut out in the middle for the crank for you to hit against it shouldn't be bad. One thing to keep in mind, there is no hard stop to butt the seal against. I used silicone to...
I had a caliper hanging up on my '73 ford. After replacing everything on the truck, I fould the pushrod through the brake booster was adjusted out too far and would not disengage the master cylinder
I've got a 1973 ford f250 pickup, a 1987 jeep wrangler with a om617 diesel in it, a 1981 ford f350 service truck and a 2020 jeep compass and so far only the compass is running lol.
I wouldn't recommend the facet pump. It tends to struggle to keep up with fuel demand with anything more than stock na pump. Since you are talking about running stage one injectors and the potential moose injection pump the facet will not keep up with the demand.
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The inlet pressure affects timing most, if you run the holley black or blue you will need a pressure regulator. The inlet should be between 6-9psi as far as I'm aware and if I'm wrong someone will correct me
Many people use the holley red pump. It will have enough flow for stock and near stock systems. I personally am using a holley black pump but I am also using a 110cc injection pump.
One option you might be able to consider is headsaver shims. When I had my engine machined they mentioned that it can help if someone took to much material off the head when they decked it.
Installed the power steering cooler and aftercooler radiator. Got the new headlights installed, started and bled the p/s system checked for leaks and repaired the ones I found.
just so you know it can also be potentially dangerous to use compressed air to pressurize an ac system. Under normal circumstances r134a is not flamable however when mixed with air under pressure it becomes flamable. Usually all the refrigerant is removed before it becomes pressurized however...
Its my plan to have the 38 gal and the 19 gal in my '91. I bought the modified sending unit from @Thewespaul and I already had a tank from a different project. Since he sells the 38gal setup he should know more about other steps involved in the swap.
Depending on how bad the wiring is, it might be worth pulling the harnesses and rebuilding them, so long as you are only talking about exterior harness you do not want to pull the interior if at all possible, but it would have to be pretty bad to justify it. Just remember to mark where every...
Sounds like you have air intrusion in your fuel system. The most common place for this is the fuel return lines and caps on the injectors but it can come from anywhere. Check for any fuel leaks, wet spots, cracked hoses, leaking weep hole on lift pump and see if thats your problem
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