I need the trailer wiring pigtails from the rear of the truck- 2 connectors, one grey, one black. Need about 8" of wire along with the plugs if they're in good shape. Willing to cut them off?
Guys-
I figured this was specific enough I could post it in the IDI Forum, if it must be moved, thats ok too...
I need the two connectors at the rear of the frame for trailer wiring- just the truck side, with approx 8" of wire on each. I'm hoping for connectors with the plastic clips...
I have pics on my computer at home. Can get them Monday at the soonest. Mine are 2.25" if memory serves. They wrap around the outside of the front most body mount and snake up under the plastic fender liners running parallel to the radiator. They then connect to the turbo and engine intake via...
I run 12-15 psi, but the intercooler causes a bit of a boost drop. I struggle to get it over 12 unless I have a good load on it. With my current fuel setup- a supposedly 'turbo cal' pump from DPS that I resealed and stock injectors, it runs pretty good though. I'm looking at a cam and revised...
I have the Aurora 2000 kit- and its not interchangeable with the factory parts. To my knowledge the factory IDI Turbo and ATS 093 parts are interchangeable though.
Ryan
It just didn't work right with the stupid piece of 1" hose and the CDR turned on its side. I had the ATS valve cover just sitting from when I purchased the turbo kit, I was just too lazy to paint it and install it. When I began driving the truck back and forth from Albuquerque to Las Vegas...
Here's mine with that same style of turbo, but the newer Aurora 2000 kit. I too made an intake hat. I've since ditched the banks adapter on the IP cover and installed the correct ATS drivers side valve cover for the CDR.
Some oil in the intake tract is to be expected if you have a CDR in the system. RTV is NOT sufficient to seal the intake hat to the intake manifold. I recommend using a large square cut o-ring from McMaster carr. You can get them in the correct 5 1/8" (I believe thats right anyhow) diameter...
See my post in this thread:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?56254-Need-to-find-and-install-a-7-blade-trailer-plug&highlight=
There's a photo that clearly shows the Ford PN
Ryan
Have you ever set up a gas engine at base timing to get it to run and tried to DRIVE it that way? Low or no power until you bump that timing, right? The same thing applies with your diesel. All you did was set the base timing to get it to fire. Until you set the timing the proper way, you're...
Considering the customer-pay door rate for diesel work is well over $100/hr these days, thats a pretty cheap repair- especially for that amount of work!
Just order a proper sizes square cut o-ring from McMaster-Carr. I got a Viton oring for mine that's 1/4" thick and it sealed it right up. No messy RTV, and the hat comes right off if I need it to.
To add to Towcat's post:
Yeah, $200-300 is hard to swallow, but we're talking a custom made duplicate of a part that is effectively made of "unobtainium" at this point. There is no reason to bitch about the price, when it's reasonable considering the investment of time and materials. If the...
Definitely interested in one. When I purchased my IC kit from ATS, they didn't have the "hershey kiss" to complete the kit. I've fabbed my own part, but would prefer the correct piece to complement my IC kit.
I think what makes them come off is a combination of old age and careless folks removing/installing the caps. When I put the alcoas on my truck, I purchased 4 new caps directly from Ford (at like $60 ea.!). I've always removed and installed mine myself, taking care to line up the tabs when...
Any decent hydraulic shop should be able to set you up. Take them the appropriate hoses for each and they can re-crimp them on a new piece of hose. It won't be an off the shelf part, but a nice new piece of braided hose will likely never give you trouble.
Ryan
So why don't you try some OEM parts from the Ford Dealership? If the first one went 1xx,xxx miles, why not buy another rather than wrestle with inferior aftermarket junk?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.