I remember when he did that. I was following his thread over on Schuman's Automotive site.
We are headed on a 2000+ mile trip in our 85 for christmas, if I can get new floorpans in it. The rust is overtaking the motor big time at this point.
You got me all excited, I thought it was going to be an aftermarket core support. I dont care about fancy lights till I have something decent to hang them on...
Its really more about the number of cycles more than miles. Some folks will get well over 150K if they do lots of highway driving. If you are doing short runs or stopping and starting a lot they can start to burn out after 50K.
For those in the South:
Flat Rock Radiator in Flat Rock, Alabama. He inherited the shop from his dad. They have been around about 40 years in the same spot.
Are there not any radiator shops left in California? I just had a factory radiator hot tanked and rodded here. (I did have to drive to Alabama to find a radiator shop.) If the radiator is not rotten a radiator shop can make it good as new.
I think it cost me $125 bucks and 2 hours of driving...
Manufacturers also change pressures to change the feel of the wheel. If you want a more extreme change, move back to the 1970s. Those units spin the wheel effortlessly, but were dialed back in the 80s to give a more firm feel to the wheel.
It is a factory radiator, but I am in TN. I think you will need to change out your core support in order to put the square radiator in.
I would consider pulling it and shipping to get you going, but this coming weekend I am out of town and I am working all week so it would not be instantaneous.
I bought replacement cables from oreilly. I was impressed by the quality and think they were around $70. There is an older thread on here where others have also had good luck with Oreilly cables.
I don't remember the actual brand.
The ring is hard to salvage without distorting the tank. It is lefty loosey, but generally bendy outy in my experience. All senders come with new rings, and they are available separately with new gaskets.
I just had a 1994 factory radiator rodded and hot tanked. It cost me $150 bucks and was worth every dollar. I hate that coring has gotten so expensive. It really is the way to go to get a great radiator that will last another lifetime.
In the hours I have had behind the wheel thinking about this issue, I have come up with two possibilities:
1. dirt in the contacts of the on off switch on the wheel,
2. excessive drag in the servo motor causing it to overheat.
I am leaning toward number 1 because I can't tie function to...
I hope your cruise starts working again tomorrow. Mine is that way. It will work for months, then quit half way through a road trip. Some times its out for a half hour, sometimes for couple of days. I haven't looked into it, because it works more than it doesn't. I drove to key west last...
There is an oring inside each of those clip fittings. The oring is in the line, not the selector valve. Once the diesel stops pouring all over your face they are easy to get out and back in with a dental pic.
Use a little grease or Vaseline on them to help the new ones slide over the FSV barbs.
Well, good news is it sounds like it is working. From what I know about the valve, if its only leaking on the rear, its likely the oring on the return line.
Those orings are easy to replace with a dental pic.
That is your easiest and cheapest solution.
Have you decided that yours is not working? If so I missed that post.
I have the original FSV on both my 87 and my 94. I did have to replace the one on my 85 a couple years ago, but I have found them to be pretty reliable.
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