Based on mcmaster-carr's website, @40psi, .060 would flow ~ .5gpm of water which oil has a correction ~1.05 meaning .525gpm.
I'm wanting to half that... get as close to 1qt per minute as I can.
In theory, the sweet spot will be around .038 which is where I'll start. Not worried about...
Sounds like the seal is seeping then. Did you rtv the outer edge of the seal? Use anything on the balancer sleeve before putting it on? A thin coat of rtv on the balancer before installing the sleeve (or loctite) is always a good idea. I also always give the outer diameter of the seal a...
I've got a mechanical gauge... using a Fleetguard filter and filter head.
I want to avoid buying multiple restrictors as they are $10 each... so just trying to see what others have used. I'm more then likely going with a .040 or .036
I just replaced my front main as well thinking it was my oil leak... come to find out, it was a mix of 2 things... the front side of the passenger valve cover (front meaning the lip right by the filter head) was seeping... and the IP case is seeping.
The oil is running down behind the...
I'm thinking around a .040 which should equate out to roughly 1qt per minute of flow which would filter the entire capacity of the engine every 13-14 minutes give or take... which from what I'm reading, is about right.
Hey guys...
Those of you running bypass filters, how large of an orifice does your filter head or restrictor fitting use? The filter head I'll be using doesn't have a restrictor and I don't want to be limited to certain filters.
The filter I'm using for now (or will be once plumbed) is a...
No such luck. It only lasted about a week. They expected it to run for a month. I kinda wish I would have had the coin to order an extra set to keep in the shed now...
Not really a huge deal as far as leaks go... but as others said, go on and change them out. The passenger side is the hardest as you have to move the filter head or at least remove the filter. Passenger side is easy as pie.
New gaskets (preferably rubber.. not cork).. and SNUG the...
Been a while since I'd updated this... so figured I would.
Finally got rubber wrapped around those 16.5s... Thanks to Trail Worth Fab and their $40 tire sale. Got 5 37s shipped to my door for under $360.
Mounted up and balanced...
So over the weekend, I decided to pull the rear drive...
The issue with regearing in my case is doing front and rear which would cost more then an under drive unit. As far as stock tires being cheaper... negative. I pay less then $100 each for 80+% tread 37 12.50 16.5 load range Es... (actually just bought another set... gave $360 for 5 shipped...
Would probably help keep it from moving around as well... My current down pipe likes to rotate slightly from time to time and start rubbing on the firewall or trans. May have to add that little tab.
Id say when it starts to drop cylinders, knock, or use more oil then you want to put in it... Then it'd be time to call it. If it just needs head gaskets.. replace head gaskets and keep on moving. How much pressure comes out of the oil fill while the engine is running (blow by)?
Hey guys..
Well I'm trying to decide on getting an auxiliary underdrive unit or taking off in low range when pulling heavy loads. Truck has 4.10s and 37" rubber and I don't want to have to slip the clutch to get it moving when heavy.
I'd heard several people talk about taking off in 4 low and...
My pyro is mounted up there yes. The gauge I use is similar to the Isspro gauges which uses a special removable harness that you can get in different lengths (0ver 50' if need be). Mine is made by VDO.. I bought the gauge, probe, and harness all separate. The probe that came with the gauge...
They do angle towards the driver's side. They make them with no holes predrilled so you can do what ever with them. I've got a pretty good description in my "90 F350 BFTD Build" thread.
I'll try to link the page
http://www.oilburners.net/threads/90-f350-crewcab-4x4-bftd-project.75633/page-17
As far as charging up dead batteries... it also heavily depends on the charger. If you use an old 10a box charger and don't monitor it.. you'll destroy the batteries.
I've had a battery flat dead for months and picked it right back up with my 2a-4a-8a battery minder smart charger and is...
^^
Multi-meter with 10a rating... unhook the ground... set it up for amps... reconnect the battery by touching the ground post of the battery to the negative lead of the multi-meter... touch the positive lead to the negative battery cable. Amperage draw should be well under 1. Start...
All the goods are finally here! New u-bolts, new spring hanger for the one that is damaged (previous owner backed it into something and caught the hanger / twisted it)... Bilstein shocks... Energy Suspensions bushings from the springs... New brake lines for the rear...
Now just need...
If it comes to that... I'd do gaskets and have the heads checked over by a competent machine shop. These engines like to eat valve guides so would be best to fix it now if they have some play.
Loosing coolant from the radiator but overflowing the bottle is a common sign of head gasket failure...
Time to talk to an attorney. After it's all said and done, find a different insurance company.
Saying they wont cover the trailer.. hell, what happens if the trailer sideswipes a car while in tow... does that mean you have to pay out of pocket for the damage caused by the trailer? That's...
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