Going to in the morning when I get to work. If that is the case, I'm not worried about it at all. The parking brake will be fixed soon when I swap my new rearend into the truck.. however the sound it makes when it moves certainly makes it sound like the clutch is slipping and I never really...
No joke. Thankfully the last batch of Moog parts I got in for the shop were old stock still made in the US. Seemed to be decent quality.. and far better then what I could get locally for a reasonable price.
Engine starts easy and runs strong... And again, Everytime this happens, the clutch pops/chatters. I'll see tomorrow if the engine is turning over bit I've had that happen on low compression turbo gas burners... And this doest feel like that.
Well.. I can actually hear the sound coming from the clutch.. it makes a slight chatter sound and it will roll backwards slightly (like an inch or so at a time).
What gear the trans is in makes a difference as well. In 1st.. it does it but not bad.. any other forward gear and it wont...
Yup. It's all about quality control and the base materials used (which I believe comes from the states in cases of brands like Motorcraft, timken, Moog, skf, etc ..)
With that said, the last few timken bearings I bought were still stamped made in the USA. Same goes for Moog which has moved a...
Problem is our local yards have pretty well crushed everything this old already. I know my buddies '93 has the same box... does anyone know the year change for the heater box?
Pretty well anything earlier then late '90s is gone in our local yards.
Hey guys..
So.. 2 nearly identical trucks.. only difference is rear gear (4.10 vs 3.55). Same 37" rubber... same trans... same clutch kit (luk single mass conversion).
The truck with 3.55s has no problem resting on a grade in gear without using the parking brake. Mine however, will...
Hey guys..
Well I thought I had a blend door actuator issue... so I removed the actuator to find that the blend door itself seems to be broken/damaged.
I haven't pulled the box yet to see what I'm dealing with... but where am I going to find a new blend door if it is broken?
From my...
Actually... my main question was what would the spec be to refill my 90/93 system with r134 after replacing everything...
From what I'm reading, r134 requires roughly 80% of the r12 spec. I'll plan on ~3 12oz cans and go by the pressure and temp coming out of the dash when adding the 3rd...
Here is what I dont understand...
In 1990, it calls for 52oz of R12..
In 91-93 calls for 44 of r12
94 calls for 32oz of 134a
All of those body styles use the same components.. same evap.. same condenser... similar lines.. and similar compressors...
Im guessing 134a doesnt require...
Yup. I've done a few ac jobs... I'll pull it down for a good bit. Was considering flushing the compressor but there is no way to get ALL of the oil out of it. I need the fittings anyways so I'll order a kit.
Did you end up using all 52oz or did you stop at 24?
Hey guys...
So my '90 F350 came to me missing most of the AC components. I have since swapped to a '93 engine with serpentine setup... ordered new hoses, condenser, evap, drier, orifice tube, etc.. all new. Only thing that may get reused is the compressor that is on the engine now... not...
Thought about it... also thought about using an under deck marine tank (which they make 100+ gallon).. but that's a lot of weight and with the weight of the camper (probably north of 2500lbs)... Not sure if it would be a good idea or not.
I've currently got one... but I'm building an expedition camper that will mount to the flatbed and will have to remove that tank. I'd need something that I could mount under the bed.
That's why I'm leaning more towards trailer...
Hey guys...
Just wondering what you waste oil guys do for long distance runs (1500 mile+)?
I've been tossing around the idea of a fuel trailer... or a LARGE tank on the truck (100+ gallon).
Ideas?
Thanks bud. I'll probably go with 4.88s. Not worried about running over 70 in this truck so a bit higher rpm is fine by me as long as it pulls what I need it to.
Called one local shop and was quoted nearly 1k if I drop the axle off out of the truck. Doing some shopping around at the moment.
Not sure of a fitting I could use to make my own. I know some drill pipe plugs for the restriction... but not sure how I'd put a pipe plug inline with the outlet and still have threads for the hose fittings...
I suppose one could take a steel pipe nipple and weld it solid... then drill it...
Is that chart on the left with 3.55 rear or 4.10?
I was almost certain I'd need to step up to 4.88 (my truck is currently 4.10)
That is more then likely the route I'll go... just sucks. I'd like to do it myself but buying all the tools for setting up 2 axles is kinda pointless for a one...
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