Haven't driven it in a long while.. but the same as I do with my IDI... a couple miles. With the benz, I would switch 5 miles or so out as it has a looped return system so it takes a bit longer to get diesel to the IP and injectors once switched over. If the return system was maintained, it...
Replace the starter and negative leads. Reinforce the grounds to the frame/body of the truck as well. With fresh batteries, it should crank over solid.
Id venture to say that the starter that is on it does perform fine on a test bench and passes spec... But I had a starter do the same until...
Not on the door tag.. but it is in the manual. Hell... if that's all they are worried about, I'll scratch off my door tag and throw some 450 badges on it... or just find a 450 or super door in the junkyard with the sticker still on it.
Correct... but trucks do have a GCWR meaning total maximum weight of truck and trailer combined weight.
Grossing 25k is well over the published maximum GCWR... so why would it be that GCWR doesnt matter... but GVWR does?
Such as... 7.3 w/ auto and 4.10s is rated for 17k GCWR.
With manual...
Like I said before, I'm going to shoot for keeping weight under gvwr... I just don't think it'll happen.
As far as why I'm not worried about legality as much as longevity... for lack of better words, i don't drive like an asshat and draw unwanted attention to myself... and if something...
In the process of rebuilding my AC system top to bottom...
The new pressure hose assembly that bolts to the compressor has 2 inline canisters (one on each line).. roughly 1.5" diameter/3" long. Are these some sort of filter? The original hoses don't have them.
Stepping up to a 450 is kinda out of the question at this point.
The owner of Idacamper runs his on an OBS 250.
http://www.idacamper.com/
His first build is pretty similar to what I'm planning... but mine is going to be a hardside popup. His scales at 2200 dry and from talking to him on...
Ok... new compressor and condenser installed.
Here are pics of the compressor...
Compressor is made in China... however it is a legit Motorcraft part with Motorcraft embossed on the case.. MC part number and serial stamped as well. I wouldn't be overly worried about the country...
I suppose I'm more concerned with longevity then legality. I don't want to be eating wheel bearings and breaking springs... Getting stuck on the side of the road in BFE.. etc.
Truck will basically be rebuilt, other than the body, using quality parts front to back. I just want the rig to last.
Right now, the front has Raybestos Pro rotors and Wagner severe duty pads which are new.. The rear that is getting ready to go in has 3" drums and shoes (both raybestos pro) and dually 1.25" wheel cylinders for a bit more push. I'll be upgrading to hydroboost as well and will more then likely...
Hmm.. well looks like I'll need to do some digging.
We scaled my buddy's 93 extended cab on 37s and it rolled across at 7200#.
Now mine is a crew cab but has a flat bed... so I'd say weight would be comparable.
If I keep dry weight close to 2k... worst comes to worst... dump the water...
Most of the weight will be down low (floor height) such as water tanks, appliances, generator, batteries, etc... Only weight up high will be the sleep area which won't be much. Not much different then putting a pallet on the flatbed.
Hey guys..
So my plans for my '90 F350 have changed and now my wife and I are planning on building a part time expedition rig out of it. We will be starting on building the camper soon (it will be a lift off cab over type that will be mounted to the flatbed and can be removed easily when not...
Looked into it... buying all new.. the condenser wasn't bad but the hoses (which are different) were quite pricey.
All the r12 stuff will be here tomorrow though.
I've been using a lot of Raybestos pro series chassis parts lately and their quality seems to be on par with old Moog. It's getting harder to find quality parts. Lol
Yeah... from what I've seen.. most builders don't know how important the preload is on these transmissions.. just throw it together with the original shims and call it good.
I gotta ask.. what failed?
Am getting ready to rebuild a spare I have in the shop and am curious what to watch out for...
I know these transmissions are VERY picky about end play and bearing preload.
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