Well... The 90 is a db2.... The 150 is a db4... The 110 is a db2 with db4 internals.. What exactly would you call it then? Usually when you do something along those lines, it's called a hybrid.. doesn't matter how many parts you use from each. Kinda like when you put an hx40 compressor...
If I were in your shoes... the builder that I paid a substantial chunk of change would be standing behind their work... building me another set of heads and replacing pistons if there has been damage done.
I'm sure they warranty their work... don't they?
If so.. it's their problem...
Just a heads up... The RD2-110 is a hybrid db2/db4 pump.. it produces 110cc at peak hp.. but over 130cc at full tilt. Unless you are planning on 300+whp.. it's more pump then you need.
Most seem to be more then happy with the RD2-90 in a street/ daily driver application.
As far as his...
Months.... I'm running the banks adapter with 1" hose to the intake. I get very little oil residue in the intake tube... No noticeable oil use...
I'd say that's because of the design of the adapter and the near 6" vertical rise to the intake tube from the adapter. I also have a 5/8 line...
What CDR valve? Doesn't have one. Intake tube stays fairly clean.. I'd say less oil in the intake tube then what used to sit in the intake when it was NA and had a functional CDR.
What ends up in the intake now is just vapor that drops out.
I would have went road draft... But can't...
Well, FINALLY got my rear-end finished and swapped in last week and what a difference!
Old one ready to drop...
IMG_20170725_231525422
Cutting out old, twisted hangers and shackles... oh.. and check out that custom hitch install. LMAO.. the guy was actually pulling with this setup...
What is she looking to do with it?
I've got a '16 Denali 3500 DRW sitting in my driveway.. loaded.. lifted.. sitting on 24" american forces with a bunch of extras... built trans with receipts.. just over 16k miles on it. It could be had for a steal.. friend that owns it wants out from...
You're not gonna want to turn down the 110 and run it NA... I doubt you could turn it down enough. I'd run the pump that's on it currently to break it in... Swap the pump when you add the charger. Stock sized charger ain't gonna cut it either... At minimum, I'd get his 093 drop in or just...
Ok... shoes are adjusted and it stops great now... still no parking brake.
I adjusted the slack out of the cable and with the tires off the ground, I cant turn the tires by hand with the brake set... but it still wont hold the weight of the truck on anything more then flat ground...
So...
I hadnt rebuilt drums in a LONG time... then I decided to rebuild the whole axle and regear it.
I just backed it in the shop and will manually adjust the rears and go from there. I thought the pedal was riding a bit low on stopping. I had fully flushed the brake system after swapping in the...
Hey guys..
Anyone have specifics on how the parking brake is supposed to be set?
Everything is new in the rear including brake cables. Brakes feel good but the parking brakes do nothing. The rear cables move the shoes... so I must not have them adjusted right. With the pedal released...
From my understanding, the sudden burst of power you feel when air hits the IP is from the timing advance system of the pump. When small air bubbles hit the pump, the timing advance pretty well pegs giving that "burst of power" feeling.
To find your air leak, I'd start by putting a small piece...
Wouldn't need an RV water heater sensor... just use a standard coolant temp switch that is normally closed and opens in the 140F-160F range. Run the ground for the timer relay through that switch so as long as coolant temp is below 140-160, the relay will be grounded and will trigger the glow...
Ive got an optishift bauman controller on my 4l80e in my Tahoe. It's simple... it works. No bells/whistles.. no bs.
Not sure about differences between the e4od unit and the 4l80e, but I'd us one on an e4od no question.
Build your own. Get a 506-902 Stancor solenoid and a 12v timer relay. Set the relay for 10 seconds and either set it to trigger via key on or a push button.
Key on, the relay will cycle the glow plug solenoid for 10 seconds or push the button once and it will do the same. Nearly bomb proof...
The shop was using what I provided. The shims that came with my national install kit had the same ID as the bearings meaning they were a snug fit to the pinion. With that slight chamfered lip on the pinion (which my stock gear set didn't have), the shim wouldn't sit flush against the pinion...
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