Manually shift it into 2nd gear and see if it will pull past the RPM. It should hold the gear and it wont cause damage as it wont take much throttle to get there.
I would advise against using CLR or what have you... as you will spring a leak. Make sure your SCAs are in check and run it if its staying cool... otherwise you'll be replacing the radiator.
On that note, The champion 4 core is a beast and can be had for 265 shipped if you keep your...
Yup.. didn't see that.
Could be a weak lift pump or it could be the lift pump sucking air. Those are simple/cheap things to look at before considering an IP issue. How does the engine perform in lower gears at those RPMs? As load goes up, fuel demand goes up as does the likelihood of small...
Seen those the day I found out it was cracked. I've seen complete transmissions in my area go for $400... so I'll just keep my eyes open for the time being.
Anyways, had a bit after work so I started cleaning up the damaged area...
Drained the trans, 1.5 cans of brake clean, some emery...
IF it functions... which mine currently doesn't.
However, I'm leaning more towards the description above... You may be coming up on the governor and its pulling fuel which is what its supposed to do.
What RPM are you turning when you notice the issue?
Exactly... it can very well happen (which was the video I was referring to). If you do happen to have another explanation for blowing the precups out of the heads with such force as to damage the block.. Do tell.
However, for giggles, lets say that it wont happen. What WILL happen is...
Disconnect the GP system ASAP. You can blow the prechambers out of the heads and cause some serious damage. With the glow plugs disabled, it wont hurt anything to use a little bit.
As far as the injector lines, if you have had it running, I wouldnt worry about it.
Did the smoke happen...
Depends... Oil has a higher BTU output however it burns slower (retards timing) meaning by the time the exhaust valves are opening, combustion is still happening causing higher then normal EGT readings. I would bump the timing say 1.5-2 degrees and see if it makes a difference.
As for...
I would bet you have an exhaust leak at the down pipe flange.
If you are using starting fluid, you do have the glow plug system unhooked right? Make sure to unhook main power to the glow plug relay.
While cranking, purge the air from the filter head valve. Also, crack all of the injector...
The slight tick I heard sounded like fuel knock to me...
How do you set the valve lash with the adjustable setup? Could just be a learning curve on that as there isn't really a "spec" is there? Does HS have any running videos to compare valve train noise?
It does sound healthy...
I think I found the case of the crack anyways... The front drive shaft was F'ed (CV is all but gone) and the kids that had it before me were pull starting it all the time in 4 low... crack is on driverside. I'd say massive vibration/shock loading from pull starting did it in.
Talked to...
Yup.. Mine isnt quite that bad... but bad enough. Spool gun for this one is 650 and the welder was just under double that.. but for 650, I can buy a new housing and rebuild it myself.
Just priced a spool gun for my miller 210... Ouch.. Lol
Ive got a friend that has a good bit of aluminum fab under his belt... I'll give him a call and see if he can do it in the truck or not.
Here is the best I could get last night... The crack starts in the deepest part of that webbed area.
If I had a spool gun, I might be able to do it... but I'd be doing it blind since it goes so deep into the webbing. I might just have to get a spool gun ordered and try it. I've been...
Yeah... really hoping I can seal it up for the time being... perhaps run a heavier fluid it in as well just to get by. The wife is already a bit frustrated with the money I've spent on this turd and now this... lol
We'll see what happens. I wont be able to mess with it til Tuesday...
Thought about that but it's in an area where the webbing is deep. Only way I could see getting a tig torch in there to it would be to pull it apart and weld it from the inside. At that point, might as well replace the housing.
Apparently that housing is the same on all early ZFs... So not...
Did some digging... no used transmissions in my area currently... salvage yards are wanting close to 1k... no trucks being sold for parts on CL...
I believe for the time being, I'm going to attempt to seal it up. Going to drain the trans, clean/wire brush the area and fill the...
I swear I can't win for losing with this POS...
Took it for a drive... Got back and noticed the trans is dripping... Started looking around and found a 5" crack on the drivers side of the tail housing...
Now what...
Edit... only real option at this point is to try and seal it up...
I think I'll try it both ways. Problem with doing a flat or matte is not being able to sand it to remove imperfections... so no matter what, there will be a texture to it (oddly thats what I want). I'm not looking for smooth/perfect.. I'm looking for rough/rugged look.
If this doesnt...
Lol... after doing some reading, guys seem to have much better luck thinning/spraying with hvlp then rolling when it comes to flat/matte finishes. I have a cheap gun and the reducer is cheap... may be the route to take for the best outcome.
More research to do... either way, I'm...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.