Perhaps the cap came loose or the joint seized on that side and it was spinning inside the yoke? Does look worn... has a funny angle to it unless its just the picture.
Be careful when you go to adjust that wastegate. Buddy of mine broke the arm off of his because it is dimpled in place. If you unhook the gate, drive pressure will open it around 12ish psi.
In your case, I wouldnt either. My up-pipes fit together nicely with no gap but we've been fighting a buddies 093 kit for leaks and I didnt want the same BS with mine.
I'd say copper or aluminum would work well.
If you think about it, if the parts are moving as one piece (which they should), I wouldn't think it would fail
I used it on all of my up-pipe connections on my 093 install over the weekend. So far, no leaks but I did have an issue for a few miles where some of it broke loose and ended up...
Ive personally used it on a warped flange that had nearly 1/8" gap on one end (didnt have time to have the manifold surfaced) and it never leaked.
I'm curious as to why the fitment is so tight on those pipes...
Go to the local hardware store and pick-up a tube of this...
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rutland-black-furnace-cement-10-1-3-fl-oz
A small bead around each mating surface. Bolt it up and let it cure overnight. Cheap fix and works well.
A lot of engines (not sure about the IDI) that use piston oil coolers have a valve/spring built into them in which they only open above a certain oil pressure (helping to maintain idle / low rpm oil pressure). Not sure about the IDI as I said which may just use an open nozzle.
"Muffler" is installed and all went smoothly... until my undersized RDT caused the front seal to let loose.
Anyways... here are the progress pictures. Ran out of solid wire and had to switch over to flux core (which I despise..) so some of the welds are not pretty. Truck runs pretty...
Finally got everything ordered to bolt on the 093 "muffler". Also scored a complete devils own water meth system for $100.
I'll definitely be taking advantage of the upcoming long weekend.
If I had that kind of coin (which I'm sure it'll sell for a good bit more then that).. I'd add a Barrett M95 to the safe. Been eyeballing one at a local shop... the AR-10 is much closer to the budget. Lol
I wonder if they make an AR platform that can be chambered in 300winmag...
I've been tossing around the idea of an AR-10 build... I just buttoned up my first ground up 15 and love it. Its a tack driver. Now I need something that can reach out a good bit. Lol
I'm using the us shift controller on my 80e. Works great... doesn't have all the bells and whistles bit for half the price, it has worked flawlessly. Tuning was also pretty straight forward.
The tahoe? Not on here... but I do on 4btswaps.
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?21080-03-Z71-Tahoe-4bta-Swap-(Looong-term-project..-well..-sorta)
Hey guys..
Well I replaced my wiper motor today as it would stall out at random. I also broke down and pulled the intermittent wiper regulator out and resoldered it so I'd have more then just high speed.
Now I have high and low speeds... but when the wiper switch is in the "delay"...
Just been thumbing through your build... looks nice.
I saw you picked up an hx30w charger for it... pair it with an hx35w (12cm housing) and you'll be really impressed. I started out with the stock h1c on my 4bt... then went to a single hx30w (6cm housing) and set boost at 25psi. Ran...
injector line as in feed line between the pump and injector? If so.. negative. You wont get it to seal up with hose or anything as the pump produces 2k+ psi on the injector feeds.
Perhaps you could put a hose on it into a container and limp it home on 7 cylinders... but you'll be...
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