That Hayden 3655 control looks like it should work decent for controlling the clutch, I would buy the temp sender for it instead of using the push in radiator probe, if someone else does decide to swap over clutches and try that controller I’d like to know how it turns out.
There is enough...
So how long does it take to say burn a 3/8” square hole into 1/8” steel material?
Using the shaft from an old clutch does save some time as you don’t need to machine out the inner threads and pilot end and all you need to do is machine the hex down and thread it, then part it off.
Using the...
That’s what I’m going to do is loctite it to the water pump and if I ever need to change pumps I’ll just press off the flange, as for being readily available, I don’t have the means to make these but if someone else does I highly encourage them to make them, it’s really just two threads types...
You just need one gear, any size to switch the direction of your lead screw :D
I’m leaning towards the loctite on the ID and leaving the end of the bushing open, no matter what is done, this thing will be stuck on something in short order from rust as it has no coating. Anything trying to grab...
I ripped the threads off a water pump with just the wrench kit and pushing down, that was an expensive learning experience, I now carefully torque the fan nut to the ~100 ft-lbs that’s required.
Only thing I may change and make a version 2 bushing is I don’t have a pilot end for the fan clutch...
Got the bushing, came out thicker then I was expecting but should work, anyone think loctite would be needed? Keep in mind the fan clutch nut will still tighten against the water pump.
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Small updated, managed to look at a 6.4L water pump and the flange won’t work for swapping over, the 6.4 uses a way bigger shaft and the pulley bolt hole pattern is smaller, not a option to use.
I’m hoping to have the bushing machined out tomorrow then figure out how to mount the stator...
The idea for using the 6.4l fan clutch wasn’t to make it cheaper or easier, it was to have more control over cooling without having to give up your first born, the biggest problem with the Horton clutch is the price and finding one. At least with the 6.4l clutch, if it fails on the big road trip...
That’s what I found to use at work, ignore my incorrectly drawn sticky note haha
It will be a nice piece of billet steel :D
The pipe piece I have is SA105N, 70,000psi tensile strength and 36,000psi yield strength, should be more then strong enough.
I was just thinking, how about just cutting one side of the bushing in half? That way it will still be strong thread wise and should unscrew from either part easily?
I believe your referring to something like this?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3843708&cc=1444017&jsn=11
This will work for an on/off controller at some preset temperature, what I’m saying is I don’t want to run it at either 0% or 100%, I want the fan to turn on say 30% at 200F...
Those both use a potentiometer to control fan speed and have no way to control fan speed based on temperature, you could use it if you want a completely manual system but I would like something more on the adjustable automatic side.
The bushing shouldn’t take a good machinists more then an...
I wouldn’t recommend a controller like that if your going to put a nice fancy controllable fan clutch on then drive it with an on/off controller.
As laserjock said, these clutches use PWM to drive the clutch, there’s ignition controlled 12v sent to the clutch and the controller supplies the...
About an inch of clearance from the clutch to radiator.
Tried the 6.4L fan to see if it would fit and it doesn’t unless you want to move the radiator to the passenger side by about 2-3” and raise it up a few inches.
Bolted the idi fan to the 6.4L clutch but forgot to grab a picture, just...
Won’t need anyway to tighten the parts separately as when you put the bushing on and then torque the clutch it will tighten both parts together. Now removal mite get interesting as the bushing will be left either in the clutch or on the water pump and may not be removable. I don’t think there...
The nice part about this clutch is they are easy and plentiful to find and even not too bad to buy new. If you can find a fan controller that outputs PWM instead of on/off you can take full advantage of this fan and if the fan controller has multiple temp inputs you could keep the ac cold at...
Here’s a few more pictures oh just how big the fan blades are and how much bigger it is compared to the wide radiator fan shroud.
More to come soon after some r&d work.
Been reading about better fan clutches or going electric and the general consensus is mechanical is the only way to go, now I have heard/read that one company (Hayden I believe) made a electro-viscous fan that would bolt to the idi but it was very expensive and I believe is no longer made.
Now...
On the dmf, the part that bolts to the crank is a bearing that doesn’t get used until the internal clutch in the dmf slips and makes the whole thing garbage afterwards.
I know the proper fix is to get a 4 stud converter but could one simplify drill out the other 3 holes that hit the flexplate and just put a nut on the one that falls into the voild of the flexplate to keep it balanced?
Or cut off the 4 studs that don’t line up and weld on 2 that do?
Where do you have the yellow wire hooked up that goes to the alternator? Is it before or after the breaker? If it’s after the breaker (starter relay side) and the breaker opens, the alternator doesn’t know this and will produce a very high voltage on its output (up to 80v or so) which will...
The bulb is not a fuse, it's a current limiter so you don't blow out the lamp driver circuit.
In the red box in the photo below is a typical lamp driver circuit use by ford, as you can see when the ignition switch is on, current flows through the bulb (and resistor) into the "I" terminal of the...
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