Put it on gravel/mud and see if it pushes the front tires or feels the same. You could also set the e brake and see if it feels the same/gets worse. That’s what I’d do to see if it was front or rears sticking
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That was a clusterf*$k year that I don’t like lol. You could’ve probably got a 7.3 bullnose 4 speed if you asked nicely
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Is it clicking on and off repeatedly? That’s a bad relay. 4v is definitely too low, I don’t think good batteries drop below 8v while cranking
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What exactly is the reason we have to use a special tool for our freeze plugs? What happens if you just use a socket and hammer?
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I did my tie rod ends and know my radius arm bushings are shot, need to do them but tall jack stands are tied up. Not 100% on wear rate but radius arm bushings were right behind tie rod ends on my truck
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Run 12v to the signal wire on the solenoid, If nothing happens, jump the 2 large terminals with heavy gauge wire or a tool with an insulated handle. That can help rule out the solenoid and the starter.
Tach sounds like a ground issue.
Have you put a multimeter on the batteries?
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I ran 40 front 30 rear on the bfg’s. I just kept dropping until I felt warm side walls after driving then brought the psi back up like 5psi. Rears go up to 75 when towing.
Not sure if the shocks are oe or not. Truck feels solid but I want the nice new shocks since it doesn’t have sway bars...
Bilstein’s are on my list too. What psi do you run in these when empty?
The generals were like 830$ and I had to pay 279$ to switch into the Goodyear’s. Little over 1100$ for tires, mount, balance, and road hazard warranty
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Gonna have to disagree^. I just got my Goodyear a/t adventurer’s mentioned earlier and it is a night and day difference. Truck feels solid, normal, and most importantly safe. These goodyears at 60psi front/40 rear are like a sports car compared to the boat feeling of those general grabbers at...
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