Not to get too far off-topic but folks really ought to educate themselves about Soviet Communism and the Stalinist dictatorship that followed before comparing it to anything else--Stalin also purged the government and military of anyone who might be less than blindly obedient or dare to stand in...
Oh that's easy--it's the Combustion Production Unit otherwise called an 'engine', and uhhh, maybe you need 500rpms to push enough fuel uhhhh, ya know?:joker:
I bought the FTZ crimpers and they do a great job for the price. Military style terminals. Tinned HD Power lugs from marine supply and high quality adhesive lined heat shrink. I need to make a set of cables and grounds for my 1990 but will go with welding cable this time to help with keeping...
Well I can't say how many amps were being drawn but at idle with the defrost and floor vents on high, stereo, headlights/running lights, and minimal E4OD electronics were quickly drawing the battery down below 12.5 volts with a nearly new 1g alt installed by the PO.
Well if your batteries are new and your cables are in good shape then I guess it likely is the starter. With stock cables I was able to connect to a Mitsubishi style, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RAY2446265 and the Denso style which is like the powermaster...
You might be OK on battery cables as I have run both Mitsubishi style and Denso style without issue. Currently I have a newer Powermaster 9050 with new batteries and it cranks real fast. My starter was behaving like yours--slow when cold, fine when warm and it turned out to be my batteries but...
Gotta' love OEM quality. I tested my 35 year old vac pump today and at idle it still pulls 25 inches of vacuum(knocks on wood vigorously). Unfortunately this means my firm brake pedal is likely due to the booster.
Yeah it's always a bummer to hear a formerly good company may have taken a downturn. The issue of being able to handle warranty replacements/repairs at multiple locations and in-person is pretty huge. I have found older posts regarding P-Master and warranties where customers had to ship the...
Well it seems that NAPA basically has one 3g alternator to choose from as far as what swaps from the 3.8L vehicles listed above, so I guess it's an easy choice. I think I'll save the pulley it comes with so I can reclock it and make it look original if I need to warranty it. The local NAPA has...
A quick search of NAPA "3g alternator" seems to show the Wilson remans as the best option. Pricey at $255 for 130amp already indexed to 3 o'clock, but use the warranty 1 time and it's worth it I suppose.
Any particular 3g you would recommend? I have been leery of parts stores and their lifetime warranties only because I would rather pay more up front and get something unlikely to fail. Any parking lot repair is more trouble than something that just keeps working.
I need to upgrade the alternator on my 1990 and was thinking about going for the 200 AMP Powermaster since I might get a cabover camper or do some other mods down the road. Are there any potential problems with running a high output alternator if you're not using the bulk of the output most of...
The alternator v-belt always seems to have a little wobble but it never causes a problem. I would be more concerned about over-tightening and needlessly stressing something else. At least 100k on my alt belt with a wobble.
Off-topic here but it seems dam near everything has to have an expiration date these days. I worked in various mental health facilities when I was in my 20s and had to check in a lot of newly prescribed medications. I couldn't help but notice that the expiration date always seemed to be 1 year...
Found some NOS Govt. Surplus Stanadyne 780430 on FleaBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/176699359368
Just thought I'd post it if anyone wants to take a chance. 4 or more and price is $66/each
The unsteady idle might be due to air intrusion in the fuel system. Hopefully the air purges and the engine can at least run steady but further investigation may be required. Like Cubey suggested, give it a good "Italian tuneup".
I knew the recommendation was always to replace IP and injectors as a matched set but I thought I might get away with breaking the rule here. I think I'll just run extra additive for a while and see if things clear up anymore. Cash is a little tight to be buying a new IP and sticks since the...
Not to hi-jack the thread but I was just considering swapping injectors on a pump with 55k on it. Is the risk that a worn out pump will struggle to pop the injectors and as a result put more pressure/stress on internal components? Or is it just that if your injectors are worn out then your...
Is it worth the risk just to avoid smoke? I can only assume it's a lot of smoke if you're entertaining options like this, but still. . . . I've read accounts of people either working or engaged in warfare in extremely cold environments actually building small fires under vehicles to warm...
Well I've spent some time this morning putting an order together for brake parts from RockAuto and of course I am trying to minimize shipping costs by making sure my items come from the same warehouse as indicated on the RA shopping cart summary. I noticed that after I had accumulated a nice...
I assume it's stainless as it hasn't rusted. I bought it from Oregon Fuel Injection. I'll try and find time to mess with it and see if I can reproduce my results.
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