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  1. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Got the Summit Radiator installed. It's almost identical to the original OEM. Summit is 3 core vs OEM 4 core, but all else seems to be the same. Even at 3 core, a quick 20 mile trip down the road, it seems to run cooler. The original did have some clogged passages, so it was showing it's 35...
  2. J

    Rebuilding a 7.3 IDI Turbo

    I'm probably very late in posting this, but here's a few snapshots of differences in IDI and IDI-T internals.
  3. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Looks like 3 Core.
  4. J

    Summit Radiator?

    KansasIDI, Summit doesn't specify core number. I have no idea how to visually verify, but this thing is heavy. Does anyone know how to verify the number of cores? JM
  5. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Received the Summit Brass/Copper Radiator. It is exactly as advertised, Brass/Copper. Haven't installed, but looks to be a good replacement. Sorry for the upside down first pic:)
  6. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Thanks guys! I'm going to take a chance and order the Summit. I know the aluminum would be fine, I just like the thought of good old copper and brass. My original worked great at cooling, never saw it go near half way on the gauge even when pulling heavy loads. I could get the small leak...
  7. J

    Summit Radiator?

    My original radiator has a small leak. I've read multiple threads on what's available, but nobody has mentioned the Brass/Copper Radiator from Summit, PN:SUM-382037. I can't find any other new production brass/copper radiator. Has anyone tried one of these...
  8. J

    Rad options

    Has anyone tried the Spectra CU1166? Looks like Brass/copper 4 core. At $570, it's not cheap, but it's the only Brass/Copper/4 Core that I've found. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=271478&cc=1126482&pt=2172&jsn=11048
  9. J

    One rear brake locks up

    Several things could cause your issues, I had similar issues a while back. I'd recommend the below. Do the easy checks first and maybe you'll get lucky with an easy adjustment fix. Check for a frozen parking brake cable. Look under the bed where the brake cable splits to the right and left...
  10. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    The original E4OD in 1989 shifted slow (my F350 is an '89 model), shifting was computer controlled. This slow shift caused "clutch friction heat damage and overheating of the fluid and converter causing more damage" according to the ATS letter on the transmission. I don't remember the exact...
  11. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    And Transmission letters. Back in the day, our ATS install had to wait until Ford made an updated Transmission computer. Also one last letter from ATS on install instructions.
  12. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    Flyer that came with the Turbo kit
  13. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    Sirs, For your reading enjoyment. I dug out the original literature from 30 years ago to find where to connect a boost gauge. I thought you guys may like to see the original instructions and literature that came with it. JM
  14. J

    Did I kill my jump pack, or my battery, or both?

    BLUF you really need charge the batteries with a good charger, see if that helps. If not, get them to an autoparts store to have them load tested. After resting for at least 2 hours (no charging/discharging), 12.7 is considered 100% State of Charge. 12.06 is 50% SOC. If you are at 11.9, your...
  15. J

    Did I kill my jump pack, or my battery, or both?

    I'd recommend charging the batteries with a good 6 to 10 amp charger overnight if possible. Trickle chargers and solar chargers can passivate lead acid batteries. A good high amp charger can sometimes burn the passivation/plating off. IDIBronco is correct. Voltage may look good, but capacity...
  16. J

    How hot is too hot?

    I know with your extensive effort, it's not this, but just to add to the conversation... What ratio antifreeze/water are you at? I had similar issues on a Perkins diesel in my tractor. The float/ball type indicators are worthless. I had way too much antifreeze. I got a refractometer type...
  17. J

    Fuel Seperator Leaking

    I can't really see what you're talking about in the picture, but years ago, I had same/similar problem. Replaced o-rings, no issues since then. I'm sure there's videos somewhere on the internet. I seem to remember finding the correct size/type o-rings was the hard part. Does this help: or
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