Bummer... my block heater works but, if I use it the rubber O-Rings weeps coolant.
Oddly and thankfully it doesn't weep at all when the engine is running or sitting ... but only if I plug it in.
Guessing the o-ring has become brittle/compromised.
One of me very old catalogs and I haven't ordered from them in a looooong time... anyone still using LMC for their old hard to find truck parts?
Besides eBay are there other valuable options out there I'm un aware of?
Thanks for the feedback... again, I recall 'some' forum members stating after they filled the new filter with ATF, start the truck, rev it a little then shut it down for an hour or so or maybe several hours/over night for a type of 'cleaning-soak' for the IP and injectors.
So I got this in from RockAuto... for the decades I used Purolator or Motorcraft but no one stocks them anymore... just Carquest.
Anyhow... I've read where some fill the filter with transmission fluid, start the engine (smokes like crazy) then shuts it off to act as a 'soak' for injection nozzle...
Oh yea... all my white plastic ends have crumbled away many years ago.
I put shrink wrap on all the ends and with a needle-nose pliers tried to 'pinch' the ends a little for a more 'firm' connection. I also use dielectric grease on the ends.
I've read that some owners cut-off the factory ends...
An EXCELLENT explanation and thank you!
All OE Beru GP's and the only 'tests' I can and have performed over the decades of owning my truck since NEW is the 6-7 steps for the GP System in my Haynes 7.3 Diesel book. And over the decades of performing those tests all steps showed either everything...
Thanks... locals no longer stock my usual Purolator, Wix or Motorcraft fuel filter/water separator however, Carquest brand is available at my local Autozone... only $20.00
Where does the GP Controller get its information for engine temperature that tells it how long to burn the GP's is it a designated water temp sensor???
*late last summer I installed a new GP Controller, all GP's, wiring etc is fine BUT whether it's 40° or 10° GP burn time is about the same...
I remove the vacuum pump which helps open that area a LOT... make sure the pumps cam-lobe is on the LOW spot~the heel of the cam. If not you can bump the engine over with a remote start or putting a breaker-bar on the crank bolt at the balancer. Using a mirror and flashlight to view the...
Why can't they just stick with one design???
Dog-leg came out, the straighter leg going in.
Delphi Part #MF0050
BTW...I call Delphi tech, they tell me the part # for my 1988 F250 7.3 is #HFP907 (looks exactly like MF0050)
Interesting but I'm not seeing the picture... I entered the part needed for my 1988 F250 and it came up F150 tilt wheel. "
1988 FTF150
Steering Column
AUTOMATIC SHIFT STEERING COLUMN W/ C6 TR Column Shift; (automatic transmission), C6 transmission, w/tilt
81000
A
23P1007
$450.00...
Being my local mom/pop radiator/recore shop closed, several years agao I had to go with an aluminum from Advance Auto ... it's been working just fine and of course, the lifetime warranty.
Had to do the dame with my OE brass rad from my 81 Corvette.
It feels like it's going to come off... I'm always gentle with it but let's face it, it's old and things wear out.
This has been getting worse, I use to have a local guy that's all he did was rebuild steering columns but he shut down.
Are parts available for whatever is wearing out???
Local junk...
Found this... and I believe it takes 2-qts ???
"****For the 1980 to 1987 model years, Ford recommended Dexron II Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for 4x4 Transfer Cases. Dexron II was replaced by Dexron III. For the 1987-1996 (Bronco, F150 and 1988-1997 (F250, F350) model years, Ford...
Time to change out the transfer Case lube on my 1988 F250.
Refresh my memory, I believe it's also what my C6 Transmission takes Mercon/Dexron-3 ... correct and approx capacity?
(not interested in synthetics)
I'll also be dropping the transmission-pan to replace the filter.
Thanks for the feedback.
Just curious 'if' you performed the test for the GP female ends as I did?
I can absolutely agree that resistance can build up in those little push-on plugs. I've always put a little dielectric grease in them to help make a better connection.
Question... what plug-ends did you put on the wire...
I did have corrosion at that connection (multi pin plug) with the two heavy yellow wires. Cleaned all that up and made a better connection and all was good for over a year and a half.
But again, just the other day I performed all the steps to test the GP and Controller and everything passed.
So no one has had a GP Controller act-up to maybe what I'm experiencing?
BTW... my local Ford stealer where I purchased the prior GP Controller (1.5 years ago) is trying to screw me out of the three year warranty.
Owned my 1988 F250 7.3 since new.
Over the decades I've diagnosed and repaired the usual 'rapid clicking' issue from a bad GP or a few.
Last year I diagnosed and replaced the faulty GP Controller with another GP Controller unit from Ford.
Now what's happening...
#1 sometimes getting the rapid...
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