7.3 IDI Turbo Knock -> Engine Pull and Rebuild

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
There’s a lot to a hydraulic lifter but contaminated oil I would say is the biggest killer.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
139
Reaction score
45
Location
North Carolina
I would definitely replace the lifters especially with those comp 910 springs your putting in.
Summit has a pretty good deal for sealed power lifters FYI. Don’t go with enginetech if you do end up replacing them.

Im just thinking of me 6 months from now swearing up a storm as i break 4 gaskets and a finger replacing the lifters with exact ones you recommended today.... $$$. Purchased

You know whats funny is in my mind im telling myself this is a stock build but I have spent an extra $1500 on upgrades that I could get away without.
 
Last edited:

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,200
Reaction score
10,873
Location
edmond, ks
I'm a little late, but DO replace the lifters. On mine, when I overhauled it, I didn't bother to replace the lifters since the engine had about 120,000 on a rebuild. I had Comp 910's installed because I was going to run a Typ4 cam before WAAAY too much was milled off of my heads, which made me have to overhaul it. I got it put back in, got it to start, and it had a miss. I narrowed it down to #2 cylinder by cracking the injector lines. Since I was just trying to get the thing running, I still have the headers on it that were on the truck when I bought it. I could see fuel dripping out where the collector and the exhaust pipe meet so I knew that it wasn't an injector. I also knew that the intake valve wasn't opening to let air in to burn the fuel. The rockers were all moving while I cranked the engine over with the valve cover off. The only thing that I could think of was a weak lifter. After I got the lifters replaced, it runs very smoothly now. I'm betting that whoever did the "rebuild" before I got the engine didn't bother to replace the lifters. It didn't have the miss before, but it probably also had the same valve springs that were put on at the factory so they weren't as stiff as the Comp 910's.
 

The_Josh_Bear

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Posts
1,911
Reaction score
1,496
Location
Western WA
I'm curious, why would we flame you? Sounds like you're kicking butt over there and getting it done!

Love the parts list, and it's such a blessing to have that diesel machine shop that knows what's up, and how to proceed. Sweet!

The only thing missing now...is pictures! :D
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
139
Reaction score
45
Location
North Carolina
Haha honestly I thought if I sleeved less than the back four I would banned. Dont want to insult the purists. I can dramamtic like that, I need to relax and stop caring what people think.

Ill upload some pictures this week.

Thank you
 

saburai

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Posts
2,201
Reaction score
983
Location
Bokeelia Florida/Catskill mountains NY
Haha honestly I thought if I sleeved less than the back four I would banned. Dont want to insult the purists. I can dramamtic like that, I need to relax and stop caring what people think.

Ill upload some pictures this week.

Thank you

There seems to be a lot of wiggle room around here...
...as long as you do it right:Thumbs Up
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
139
Reaction score
45
Location
North Carolina
Is there supposed to be a certain clearance between the rods that share a crank journal? a guy I work with is telling me yes there is but I cant find anything about it.
 
Last edited:

MICHAEL MICHAUD

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
139
Reaction score
45
Location
North Carolina
Check this out. I ordered a used piston from @Thewespaul just for a warm and fuzzy so I wont have a piston that has been knocking around in the large #7 bore, even though it appears fine on the outside. Well I pulled the wrist pin out just for a look see and check this out! Look through the wrist pin bore at how much smaller the chamfer is on the worn pieces of the edge. Both sides of the piston bore look like this.

The wrist pin looks excellent (the one i ordered is coming with a wrist pin) and the rod bushing looks to be in good shape as well.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Yep, I imagine if that were an na wrist pin it would be much worst, possibly throw a rod.

Here’s wrist pin bore difference for turbo vs na rods.
You must be registered for see images attach



Just another reason why I prefer building the turbo engines for anything much over stock power. The na rods are pretty small for the amount of cylinder pressure these engines see.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,200
Reaction score
10,873
Location
edmond, ks
Haha honestly I thought if I sleeved less than the back four I would banned.
If all of the other cylinders are standard, I'd just sleeve the one. I don't see a need to go any farther. All you're doing is eliminating the wear in one cylinder instead of all eight. Only one is worn, so just do that one. If your others have been bored, I'd have the sleeved one bored out to match the others.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
139
Reaction score
45
Location
North Carolina
Downpipe came today and I figured id just go throw it on real quick but that doesnt seem to be the case at all. It says its for the factory ATS turbo. I see factory ATS turbo everywhere but mine is a garret turbo. Whats the deal? Do I have like 1 of 50 motors that didnt have the ATS? Is mine aftermarket? It still used the stock downpipe so Im not sure whats happening. Can I just vband them together even though the flanges are not the same size lol?

The flange that mounts to the turbo is too big and obviously it is doesnt line up with the pipe. I have welding tools. Whats the easiest way to make this work. Should i trim the trans case a little and cut as much away from the frame from the cab as possible, Wait till the egnine is installed and clock / make welds adjustments as necessary? Grind down the larger flange to match the smaller one on the turbo?

You must be registered for see images attach


Called the machine shop to ask for an update. Another guy I havent spoken to before said the heads are done cleaned and to resurfaced them so now I am tripping out. I am sure the guys knows what he is doing so i am just going to try to relax. I asked about valve clearance and everything while I was there and the experienced guy says yeah typically we dont resurface the heads. THe gentleman ispoke to today assured me Mike knows what hes doing and he personally did all the cleaning and resurfacing to the heads.

Any advice on the down pipe would be greatly appreciated
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Garrett makes the turbo for ats, so every turbo is like that. You should have a 2.5” v band flange on the turbo outlet. That ats downpipe is probably 2.75. You can cut the old flange off the stock downpipe and weld it in place of the existing flange. You will use your stock clamp if you do this.

As for the angle, these after market downpipes just fit terribly. I build my own downpipes for the factory turbo setups and don’t have to destroy the firewall to fit 3”.

I would try and work the angle when rewelding the flange and you should be able to clear the trans without cutting on the bellhousing. You usually need to fold over the body seam, remove the heat shielding, and beat on the firewall a bit to make it all fit.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,198
Posts
1,128,138
Members
24,024
Latest member
Bugoo

Members online

Top