6.9 head studs

Frstdiesel

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Hey Guys, I'm in the process of the rebuild on my 6.9.

I am going to have the cylinders lightly honed while the block is at the machine shop.
I am also going to install ARP heads studs.
Should I have the studs installed prior to having the cylinders honed?
Thanks
 

DaveBen

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No, almost all shops I have known will not hone a block with bolts in it.
 

Frstdiesel

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The reasoning is the cylinders should be honed in the stress loaded condition they will be in when completely assembled. The machine shop will use 2" thick torque plates to mimic the cylinder head, then torque the bolts or studs to the proper specs and commence with boring and/or honing. This puts the load / stress of a bolted on cylinder head.
Same concept for main studs. It is common practice to hone the main bores after installing main studs.
I just figured the same principle would apply to the cylinders.
The same goes for upgrading rod bolts, it's common to resize the big ends after installing the new rod bolts.
At least this is what I have had done when building high winding small block V8 gas engines.
Thanks
 

Frstdiesel

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Thanks Wes.
Kind of my thinking too.
A buddy of mine from Austin runs a 800 hp, n/a Hemi Cuda on the street and mentioned it.
I know for a gas engine especially, when boring a block it's best to use torque plates, but this is just a simple, light hone.
 

Thewespaul

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With the rpm he’s probably running on a the big honkin hemi he’s gotta be extra careful with any machining, with our over built cast iron blocks it’s not as big of a deal. If it was an aluminum block it’s pretty much a requirement
 

icanfixall

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Our idi blocks have the head bolt threads cut away down in the block about 3/4 inch. Doing this solves two problems. With a thread at the top one can apply so much torque to the threads they actually pull up and interfere with the clamping on the head. Secondly it sets the pull much lower along the cylinder where its much stronger.
 

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