Suggestions please.....

David Hathcock

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As I go through the electrical system, brakes, and suspension of my 1988 F350 dually. I have enjoyed driving this NA 7.3 it is responsive enough and is not a hazard on the roadways, I can’t help but think there is more potential for this truck be a reliable daily driver and good towing rig. I am not thinking anything too extreme. I am new to diesels and especially the Ford/IH IDI engines. My goal is 300ish HP and somewhere around 600 ft lbs of torque, but I would be happy if I hit 270hp and 500 ft lbs. With peak torque hopefully being somewhere around 1600 RPM. As that is a far cry better than stock. At what point is this too much for the NA rods and head gaskets. I am considering building a second motor to reach this goal. My current mill has 120000 miles on it. I just do not want to take the current engine out of service while I do this. The engine mods I am thinking about are as follows:

ARP head studs

7.3 PSD rods (if needed)

R&D IDI Performance RD2-110 or RD4-150

R&D IDI Performance Stage one injectors

R&D IDI Performance Stage one cam

R&D Intake Manifold (for ease of plumbing)

I have no clue on which turbo to use (will most likely be from R&D)

For hot side plumbing I will use the stage one kit from R&D IDI Performance

I have not decided on an intercooler, I will probably look at a PSD

I will add a main cap girdle

I am undecided on gaskets and is o-ringing the block/heads an option with the IDI?

I was considering stock compression with somewhere around 20psi of boost…..but could shaving the pistons and adding more boost be a smarter way to go?

At this point standard performance building practices would be used….(balancing the rotating assembly and weight matching components.

I could use input on valve train and sealing as well as reasonable limits of the power plant. I will keep the C-6 behind it and focus on building a strong reliable C-6 and possibly adding a GV unit while retaining the 4.10:1 rear. Unless it is more cost effective to achieve the same end results and reliability using an E4OD. This is where I could sure use some input and suggestions. This build will kick off as soon as I locate a suitable core and find s decent machine shop in my area.

Thanks

Dave
 

riphip

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Personally, for all the upgrade costs you are looking at, I would find a GOOD, well kept2001-2003 7.3PSD with under 200k miles. Would be better & less $$$ in the long run. They are out there!!
 

Clb

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Ibtl...
Ok wrong forum.

Before the fanboi's try and sell ya a 600 million hp idi with earth shattering torque #'$....
Buy a stroke.

Yes justin broke a crank with huge #'$( cool build)

Be happy with subtle upgrades that up the happy factor with the idi...
Read up, the tow part wants a turbo,ficm, perhaps cam, then it gets costly.
you have Looked up r and d perf.
Now hit...
(Russ makes the cam you want.)
Type 4
Conestoga
I can flat tow at 16-18k with a stock ats fed 7.3. And not be a traffic ******.
Hills at 7k it gets by ok.
Do not expect to pass much pulling.
Ps... I sold the 88 to buy a 5 gear tow pig.
 
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Thewespaul

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Okay hold your horses guys...

What are your goals? How much power you want? Head studs and comp 910s on a na block is good for a reliable 350-400 horsepower and 700-900 ft lbs of torque. That’s a lot of power for a daily driver, about three to four times the power you have now. You don’t need anything crazy to reach that power level, save your money.
 

catbird7

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As I slip on my full face helmet and bullet proof vest,,,,,,,,,,, consider a cummins swap if you're in love with the 88 brick and desire better towing ability.
 

IDIBRONCO

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First, when you have horsepower/torque goals, are you talking at the flywheel or at the rear wheels? There's a HUGE difference between the two. Second, I don't see a need for the PSD rods. Third, I SERIOUSLY doubt that you'd be happy with a 150 cc pump. I believe that there would be too much smoke for a daily driver. The 110 should be God's aplenty for a street driver. Fourth, since you seem set on using Justin's products (I'm in no way making fun of you for your choice on this), call him, let him know what your power goals are along with your intended uses, and let him recommend a turbo. He does do this for a living. Fifth, the bottom ends on these engines are VERY strong and I think that a main cap girdle would be a waste of your money. There's several members on here who are making big power numbers and aren't using one. Sixth, while you are on the phone with Justin, ask him about his opinion on the shaving pistons and running more boost. He'll have WAY better information on this than me. Seventh and last, I don't think that head o-rings are an option on these engines, but definitely go with Fel-Pro head gaskets. They are .010" thicker than the Victor-Reinz gaskets both compressed and uncompressed. Since you're talking about healthy power and boost numbers, use 6.9 head gaskets and do the "7.3 cooling mod" (see my thread by this name for more info).
 

hce

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If you call r&d, be patient. It will take a quite a few attempts calling before you connect with him, but once you do he will take the time to talk to you. Also ask about the total seal ring, having no blow by on a new engine is quite nice. The stage one cam does seem to do nice job of cutting down smoke, or maybe it was one of the other 5 things that got changed when rebuilding the 6.9. More shocking to the rest here a r&d cam and moose pump play nicely with each other. For a rebuild kit and other engine parts I would contact clegg engines.
 

Macrobb

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The only thing you are going to find, no matter what IDI build you do is that 'peak torque' will never be at 1600. It's only at 1600 stock due to the engine starving for air higher up - it's not that you won't make good torque at 1600, it's that with any turbo that isn't choking you off, you'll be getting more boost and more torque higher than that... up to around 2600-2700 RPM.

This is honestly a /good/ thing, because more torque higher in the revs is easier on the engine - less time for that torque to hammer against the piston and such. This applies to modern engines as much as anything - even though you *can* make high torque down low, it's ******* the bits.

Generally speaking, it's also good driving - as you accelerate, you get more torque... so your acceleration stays much more constant as the revs go up.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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First, when you have horsepower/torque goals, are you talking at the flywheel or at the rear wheels? There's a HUGE difference between the two. Second, I don't see a need for the PSD rods. Third, I SERIOUSLY doubt that you'd be happy with a 150 cc pump. I believe that there would be too much smoke for a daily driver. The 110 should be God's aplenty for a street driver. Fourth, since you seem set on using Justin's products (I'm in no way making fun of you for your choice on this), call him, let him know what your power goals are along with your intended uses, and let him recommend a turbo. He does do this for a living. Fifth, the bottom ends on these engines are VERY strong and I think that a main cap girdle would be a waste of your money. There's several members on here who are making big power numbers and aren't using one. Sixth, while you are on the phone with Justin, ask him about his opinion on the shaving pistons and running more boost. He'll have WAY better information on this than me. Seventh and last, I don't think that head o-rings are an option on these engines, but definitely go with Fel-Pro head gaskets. They are .010" thicker than the Victor-Reinz gaskets both compressed and uncompressed. Since you're talking about healthy power and boost numbers, use 6.9 head gaskets and do the "7.3 cooling mod" (see my thread by this name for more info).

This is very, very good advice. Its everything I was already thinking and more, but didn't have time to respond earlier in the week.

The short and skinny is that you can hit 270hp(at the wheels!) with only a few modifications, and it's easy if you're already building an engine. (Cam, tighter ring gap, fancy turbo, etc)
The only other thing I would add is making 270hp at 20psi may not happen...but once you stud the engine, no problem with higher psi.

And dont forget to start a build thread when its time!
 

IDIBRONCO

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This is very, very good advice. Its everything I was already thinking and more, but didn't have time to respond earlier in the week.

The short and skinny is that you can hit 270hp(at the wheels!) with only a few modifications, and it's easy if you're already building an engine. (Cam, tighter ring gap, fancy turbo, etc)
The only other thing I would add is making 270hp at 20psi may not happen...but once you stud the engine, no problem with higher psi.

And dont forget to start a build thread when its time!
Thanks, man. I tried to mention everything that I had a different suggestion on.
 

Cubey

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Ibtl...
Ok wrong forum.

Before the fanboi's try and sell ya a 600 million hp idi with earth shattering torque #'$....
Buy a stroke.

I agree. In some ways I wish I had gone PSD for better long distance, mountain and high altitude towing ability, but eh, I can't fuss too much I suppose. The stuff on my 6.9 IDI I've fixed myself has been very easy so far.
 

Clb

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Same reason I did idi, coulda bought a nice 7.3 stroke for the same $$$.
 

David Hathcock

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Thank you for all the input and suggestions. I am not married ot any particular parts supplier or vendor. Some things are just what they are in regards to this truck. I chose an IDI for a reason....it's mechanical. So that makes it easier to work on and repair, and if I was not putting money into this it would be going into some other project, so no I'll pas on the PSD. Building a PSD would be like trading my stroked shovelhead for a late model HD....sure there is more after market support but, there is less personality.

Head studs are a must on almost any automotive engine I build as they clamp more evenly and are just a good idea. Anyhow when I get back from my business trip I will get back into this truck....currently it's doing everything a N/A IDI is supposed to do. it's overly reliable, it is happiest when working, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg to maintian. The biggest issue is the headlights dont want to work, new switch and pigtail, LMC trucks harness and relay mod, new dimmer switch and headlights decided to stop one day other than that everything else is fine.
 

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