I have a 93 IDI that won’t start. I have replaced the fuel tanks (filled with rust), fuel/water separator, lift pump, injection pump and injectors and the batteries but the truck still won’t start. It turns over. Please help.
Won’t start
- Thread starter T Pruett
- Start date
genscripter
Full Access Member
Did you purge the air from the fuel lines? Are you getting constant flow out of your schrader valve?
Read this: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...-out-of-the-schroeder-valve-on-a-6-9-7-3-idi/
If you have constant flow out of the schrader valve, did you crack the injector lines and purge the air from the injector lines? Read this: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...and-purge-air-on-a-6-9-7-3-idi-diesel-engine/
Read this: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...-out-of-the-schroeder-valve-on-a-6-9-7-3-idi/
If you have constant flow out of the schrader valve, did you crack the injector lines and purge the air from the injector lines? Read this: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...and-purge-air-on-a-6-9-7-3-idi-diesel-engine/
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Check the fuel shut off solenoid to make sure it's clicking when power is applied.
I would suppose it is possible your new lift pump could be a dud right out of the box. Could always put a gauge on the fuel filter head to see what pressure you get. But then again I hear these injection pumps should be able to run for a while without a functioning lift pump. FWIW where did you get the new IP?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
While dcp is junk, it should at least sputter. Lol
Run fuel straight from a can into the IP.
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Run fuel straight from a can into the IP.
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genscripter
Full Access Member
Keep trying. If you got some fuel, then that's a good sign. Put the accelerator to the floor. 15-seconds cranking, then 2-minutes off. Repeat. Let the starter rest or you'll burn it up.
Do that 5 or 6 times. If you still don't have more fuel dribbling out of the injector lines, then you could have a real problem.
I have three 7.3L IDI trucks and they all act different in purging a pump or even a filter for that matter. Keep tying is still the best advice. One truck will almost fire right up, one other makes me beat my head against the wall. What I have found works, for me anyway, is start at the schrader valve at the filter. If you don't get the air out of there, your losing the battle already. Then just crack a line on each bank, this will show the air "fizzing" out the top of the bleeder cap. Makes it easier to tell when it's all fuel. A couple sets of that and it should hit good enough to finish purging itself. As genscripter said, give the starter plenty of cool down
Thank you everyone for the help so far.
I had to change the starter and afterwards, I bled the injector lines that I could get to (all but one) and the thing fired up and ran the best it has ever run since I’ve owned it... then it stopped and won’t start again. I’m still getting fuel when I crack the lines but no start.
I had to change the starter and afterwards, I bled the injector lines that I could get to (all but one) and the thing fired up and ran the best it has ever run since I’ve owned it... then it stopped and won’t start again. I’m still getting fuel when I crack the lines but no start.
That's tough. If you're getting fuel it should be running. The only thing I can think of is you are also sucking in air some where between the lift pump and IP. The IP can't fire the injectors if there is still air in the hard lines because air bubbles will compress. It will bleed fuel but not have enough PSI to fire the injectors because of the air bubbles in the lines.
