No thats throwout bearing,My clutch chirps till I push in the pedal a little bit, is that the sleeve that you're talking about?
No thats throwout bearing,My clutch chirps till I push in the pedal a little bit, is that the sleeve that you're talking about?
No thats throwout bearing,
Why does the arm wobble like it does? That tells me the SOB, uh I meant TOB, is touching the pressure plate. Is the TOB touching the PP? Not supposed to is it?No thats throwout bearing,
Now on this idi/trans setup, the throwout bearing should be clear of the pressure plate correct?No thats throwout bearing,
Possible to connect a spring to arm and fabricate bracket behind slave to pull arm and slave piston back towards the front to keep TOB off of PP? I need to look today and check this out. I need to drop the inspection plate and check things out. Maybe the design was to have the TOB always turning. Is this bearing and actual bearing? I would think so. Seen friction bearings on smaller engines.On an IDI, the spring in the slave cylinder will always push the throwout bearing against the pressure plate, at all times. It's always turning, with slight pressure.
What I did on a "chirping" throwout bearing was install a spring from the clutch lever(arm) downward(towards the ground) with a little piece of steel off one of the bellhousing inspection plate bolts on the bottom there. This keeps it from bouncing around when it's only being held by the slave cylinder spring(your foot not on the pedal).
The design is to have it spinning, yes. It's to compensate for wear in the clutch disk at all times(auto-adjustment).Possible to connect a spring to arm and fabricate bracket behind slave to pull arm and slave piston back towards the front to keep TOB off of PP? I need to look today and check this out. I need to drop the inspection plate and check things out. Maybe the design was to have the TOB always turning. Is this bearing and actual bearing? I would think so. Seen friction bearings on smaller engines.
Right, I thought about what I said, you cant put the spring as I suggested, that would pull it away from its pivot point.What rob said. There’s nothing really wrong with your tob, just needs a bit more tension on it from the extra spring to keep it quiet.
Yes and no - I'm not pulling it forward(away from the clutch disk) or backwards(more force against the clutch disk), I'm pulling it down towards the ground. It just keeps it from bouncing(rotating around the pivot up/down) as everything shakes around.What rob said. There’s nothing really wrong with your tob, just needs a bit more tension on it from the extra spring to keep it quiet.
Haven't replaced clutch yet but will go with the luk setup. Some guy told me yesterday that someone he knows used an luk clutch and the new clutch pedal is too hard to push. I have a hard clutch pedal already so well notice a difference. Is that true about the luk clutch setups? You have one so asking the right person is in order. ThanksThe LuK 07-225 SMF kit for Non-turbo blocks*: https://www.partsgeek.com/znlns65-f...Geek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Ford+Clutch+Kit
Google has a bunch of options if you search for "LuK 07-225"; these guys look to be the cheapest.
(*Turbo blocks, available in 93-94 have heavier rods and slightly different balance to the flywheel. The clutch above will hand plelenty of power)
Good, I have one of those rock hard clutches. I will welcome a softer clutch! Already dropped the pedal assembly last year and replaced the pedal shaft bushings and the Small swing arm and it's bushing. Bought the small heim joint kit to replace that bushing. I will fabricate a stiffener and tig weld it in on the firewall where the clutch master cylinder mounts. Thanks for the skinny on the luk clutch again. Have a good weekend maccrob. DukeLuK clutch is much softer than stock, not harder. Chances are, they have something screwed up in the clutch master/slave linkages.
Remember, on 83-91 trucks, the firewall isn't reinforced quite enough and will eventually crack from the force on the master cylinder. This will effectively act like the clutch isn't going down as far as it should, so you have to shove the pedal as far down as you can to get it to disengage. The soution is to either reinforce the firewall if it's flexing badly, or lengthen the master cylinder rod a bit so you get more 'throw' with the pedal. Google has tons of information on this too.
o