Trucks Runs With Key Off

Tristan

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One more new trick that Lil started on my weekend trip. Turn the key off and she keeps idling for three full seconds then shuts down. The ignition switch is new, put in about a month ago. What else would cause this?


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gnathv

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The only thing I can think of is fuel shut off in ip is sticking and not closing immediately when key is shut off. I don’t know if a dribbling injector would cause it though. I would try sea foam in the pump overnight and see if that makes any difference.
 

hesutton

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Didn't install a turbo temperature monitor did ya? I have them on my IDI's. It lets the truck idle until the EGT's cool to a certain temperature (you can adjust what that temp is).

Anyway, that's normal for my IDI's....... or for any rig with a TTM installed.

Heath
 
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Thewespaul

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Check voltage at the ip when someone turns the truck off, voltage should go away instantly. If it does you have a mechanical issue
 

Tristan

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Good thoughts guys and thanks.
I did the IP overnight treatment not that long ago.
No Turbo Temperature Monitor although that sounds cool.
I will start with checking to see if the voltage to the IP goes away with the key or with the motor quitting and go from there.
Sooner or later all these little issues will stop right?


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laserjock

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Easiest way to tell if it’s mechanical or electrical is to start the truck and then walk out and pull the wire off the IP.

Let me clarify mechanical as in internal to the IP.
 

Tristan

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Easiest way to tell if it’s mechanical or electrical is to start the truck and then walk out and pull the wire off the IP.

Let me clarify mechanical as in internal to the IP.

[emoji1303] Yes that sounds like a plan!


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laserjock

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Report back. I doubt that’s the problem. I suspect your ignition switch is out of adjustment. I think you said you changed it. There are a couple other things I can think of but one at a time.
 

Knuckledragger

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Report back. I doubt that’s the problem. I suspect your ignition switch is out of adjustment. I think you said you changed it. There are a couple other things I can think of but one at a time.

? That sounds as if you are arguing with yourself.

There is not much to adjust on the ignition switch, and none of that will result in a three second delay. Tristan, did you replace the switch at the base of the steering column, or the barrel (where the key goes in)? If you turn it off and remove the key right away, does it still run on? If the IP solenoid is not sticking, I am guessing the ignition switch push rod inside the steering column might be. It is spring loaded and a real crappy design. It can stick under certain circumstances (bent, dry, weak spring, broken, etc).
 

Tristan

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? That sounds as if you are arguing with yourself.

There is not much to adjust on the ignition switch, and none of that will result in a three second delay. Tristan, did you replace the switch at the base of the steering column, or the barrel (where the key goes in)? If you turn it off and remove the key right away, does it still run on? If the IP solenoid is not sticking, I am guessing the ignition switch push rod inside the steering column might be. It is spring loaded and a real crappy design. It can stick under certain circumstances (bent, dry, weak spring, broken, etc).

I replaced the switch down at the base of the steering column. And yes take the key out it still does it. After checking the IP I will check that rod.
Thanks!


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laserjock

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? That sounds as if you are arguing with yourself.

I do frequently. Get the answers I want that way. Not always the right answers but the ones I want to hear. LOL

There is not much to adjust on the ignition switch, and none of that will result in a three second delay. Tristan, did you replace the switch at the base of the steering column, or the barrel (where the key goes in)? If you turn it off and remove the key right away, does it still run on? If the IP solenoid is not sticking, I am guessing the ignition switch push rod inside the steering column might be. It is spring loaded and a real crappy design. It can stick under certain circumstances (bent, dry, weak spring, broken, etc).

This is exactly what I was getting at. The switch at the base of the column is adjustable. It slides on the screws. My thoughts were if it is slightly out of adjustment it may be hanging on the edge of the on position. Most of these old trucks have issues in the ignition switch department of one kind or another. I lubed mine all up and it still doesn’t return right from start position especially when cold. It could be the pot metal actuator is about to give up too. If it’s breaking, the rod isn’t traveling as it should.
 

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Hang on... If it's only running for a few seconds after key off, don't worry about it... especially if you have the heater fan on high. The problem is that the heater fan is a brushed motor, and will become a generator when power is removed. The FSS solenoid only requires a little bit of power(and only a few volts to maintain position), so the spinning-down heater fan will keep it energized for a few seconds until it stops spinning.
 

Tristan

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Well I can't get it to do it t night. It shuts down with the key turn. I didn't have time for a drive, so I will have to try that and see if it has to be warm to do it.


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Tristan

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Turn the fan on high, then try shutting it off. Then turn it off and try it.

Macrobb it looks like you nailed it! I moved an auxiliary electric cooling fan I had on the old brown truck over to this one prior to this trip. This seems to be causing it. I drove it to work this morning and shut it down with the fan on and it ran for the 3 seconds. I started it back up and with the fan off it shut off right away. Glad you brought this to light as I could have chased my tail on that for a while!


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