Facet Duralift not enough pump to keep up?

Clb

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Ive run the cat filter above which I believe is 8psi and 44gph, and I eliminated the factory filter that Constsntly returns. Instead I added a poppet check valve set at 5psi to the fuel system high point that keeps 5psi on my injection pump at all times and returns only what's above 5psi, so it bleeds the air automatically and keeps back pressure on the ip. I have verified it to be 6psi and returning a steady stream with that pump at idle, didn't ever permanently mount a fuel pressure gauge to verify while driving but I'm sure it's keeping up with 5/16 stainless line the whole way

Any chance of getting a pn or more info on said " poppet valve"?
I'm interested in this as I've noticed some benifit over the 23 year old 40 k mile mech pump.
Altho as mel states I had to retime it.

7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel Engine Performance Specifications
Engine Model A-185, A-166
Number of Cylinders 8
Configuration OHV V8
Bore 104.39 mm (4.11 inch)
Stroke 106.20 mm (4.18 inch)
Displacement 7.3 Liters (444 cu inch)
Crankshaft Rotation (Viewed from
Flywheel End of Engine) Counterclockwise
Compression Ratio 21.5:1
Firing Order 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8
Idle Speed (No Load)* 650 rpm ± 50 rpm
Governor Speed (No Load) 3660 ± 50 rpm
Governor Speed (Full Load Rated) 3000 rpm
Timing (Dynamic) 8.5 ± 2 Degrees BTDC
Injection Pump Stanadyne DB-2
Injection Nozzle
Opening Pressure (New) 13,100 ± 517 kPa (1,900 ± 75 psi)
Opening Pressure (Minimum) 9,998 kPa (1,450 psi)
Crankcase Pressure-No Load (Maximum) 20 kPa (6 in-H2O) @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Pressure (Filter Inlet) 14 kPa (2 psi) @ idle
Fuel Pressure (Filter Outlet) 7 kPa (1 psi) @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Pump Suction 20 kPa (6 in. H2O) @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Return Line Pressure 14 kPa (2 psi) @ 3000 rpm

Valve Lifter 0
Valve Lash
Engine Lube Oil Pressure
Low Idle, Minimum 69 kPa (10 psi)
(Engine at Operating Temperature) 276-482 kPa (40-70 psi)
Crankcase Capacity (Without Filter) 8.5 L (9 qt.)
Crankcase Capacity (With Filter) 9.5 L (10 qt.)
Thermostat Opening Temperature 89°C (192°F)
* Manual transmission in NEUTRAL position. Automatic transmission in DRIVE position.

Nice stats' good info for diagnostics right there!

@FarmerFrank
Did you run alternative fuel thru your system?
Curious as to why an earley death.
That would suck pond water for sure.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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Here's some information on them, for 1/4" male NPT on both side the part number would be SS-CHM4-5 if it's 1/8" it'd be SS-CHM2-5. this will crack at around 5psi, mine opens at 6psi. This keeps a constant 6psi on your injection pump constantly returns fuel above that, constantly bleeds air (just like the factory filter) but rather than bleeding with a flow restriciton orifce only bleeds that which is above what the pump needs. I did run my front tank extremely low last week, i put 15 gallons back into my 19 gallon front, which is the lowest of ever running, i had to stop very quickly and the truck started sputtering, no dying, just a slight sputering and cleared up in about 5 seconds. I think i pulled some air in but it did its job bleeding it out and keeping the truck running. With my setup the factory filter has been deleted, the filters and pump are down below frame level and the IP is the highest point asside from the tee that connects to it with this fitting

https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/WebCatalogs/en/MS-01-176.PDF

Here is the comment i made on IDIots thread about it
 

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Garbage_Mechan

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Shawn,

I really love the idea of the swagelok valve. I think I will go with on of the adjustable ones.

Still thinking on the pump. If the Duralift is supposed to be 33 gph, how much GPH will it take to maintain pressure? Looked at a nice pump that was 90 gph, but I think that is overkill, don't want to aerate and heat up the fuel.
 

Clb

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The pump people in this thread are complaining about is the one everyone switched to that was for the ****** cooling units? I thought that pump was better than sliced bread?

Yep seemed so.....
Nope apparently not.

And fwiw I see the dash light flicker on full pulls
With fresh filters.
 
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