Turbo talk

Thewespaul

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Look into the “don’t bs me” build, he daily drives the truck now. He has a smaller turbo on it but still Chinese stuff, if you can go through someone like Veren who does a second layer of quality control they are pretty reliable, they just aren’t as efficient as the domestic turbos.
 

kent01

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It won't build more than 10 psi though, also it clears up completely at wot with that. Its almost like it's not actually getting enough fuel. Like fuel shutdown happening early or max output not happening
Have you taken your inj.pump to a shop that has calibration stand equipment? Likely you have a fuel calibration problem... Even a stock IDI is responsive when you whack the throttle down. Falling on it's face till the turbo spools sounds like you have a pump issue?

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kent01

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R and d 90cc pump though and only like a year old along with injectors r and d. I haven't located my now missing fuel pressure tester though. I did retard my timing, runs quieter maybe a touch smoother but no change in boost. It's 10psi excactly and stops as if a wastegate was working but it's not hooked up. Also smells more like fuel when cold now but it's still slightly advanced(1/64th) from the mark I put after being timed to 5' at fuel injection shop.
Talk to R&D owner about this?
That guy is really sharp bro.

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kent01

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I just did a throttle cable test and I still have like 1/2 the throttle throw and cannot push pedal anymore. Throttle cable maxed out and the plastic sheeth on it is broken from trying to use full throttle. This is a parts store cable and not very old. Should I try to find Original one from a salvage yard? Somebody had said before the parts store ines are crap and this one stretched already I used fishing weights to pull the slack off it so no extra play in cable. Just won't actuate the pump correctly. Like something is out of place? Maybe the cable holder needs bent back to adjust it or pedal assembly needs moved back?
Summit or Jegs for universal throttle cable. Or Lokar... All metal, no plastic junk.

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pelky350

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Falling in its face is from overfuelimg down low with no boost, at 1000 rpms my pump puts out like 104cc and drops to 96 at 2800. But I quickly run out of a volume of fuel which led me to belive it's my lift pump just haven't hadn't time to change it out yet or go electric with it
 

david85

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Look into the “don’t bs me” build, he daily drives the truck now. He has a smaller turbo on it but still Chinese stuff, if you can go through someone like Veren who does a second layer of quality control they are pretty reliable, they just aren’t as efficient as the domestic turbos.

Which thread is that? Here on OBN??
 

turbonator

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Falling in its face is from overfuelimg down low with no boost, at 1000 rpms my pump puts out like 104cc and drops to 96 at 2800. But I quickly run out of a volume of fuel which led me to belive it's my lift pump just haven't hadn't time to change it out yet or go electric with it
have you tested your fuel pressure under load, still running with a mechanical lift pump? it might be dropping to zero, or even creating a vacuum, not good for the transfer pump in the IP...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HX40W-T4-F...578916?hash=item33cf429364:g:-cIAAMXQaZxSDnOo

What do you guys think about this ebay special?

Exhaust: T4 Flange

Horsepower: 400HP

Wheel size for Compressor (inducer/exducer) : 68.65/97.90 mm

Wheel size for Turbine ( inducer/exducer) : 87.50/77.80 mm
  • Compressor A/R : .66
  • Turbine A/R : .96
the measurements are all over the map for an hx 40, seems like its just the throat of the compressor cover thats been measured..... we have never ran a CKO turbo(CKO=Chinese Knock Off), and probably never will, always been more hands on just to build our own from genuine cores......
 

Rossroams

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Look, I failed at putting a CX racing H1C 18cm exhaust housing turbo on my IDI stock turbo pipes, yet I got 1 psi on a NA pump at NA fuel setting. The oil restrictor didn't oil the turbo enough and I started blowing oil, but a 12-16cm housing with fuel turned up might work well, the turbos are tested, decent quality, and around 200-250$ I drained the oil through a flexible Cummins oil drain into the CDR vent hole. I'd say go with it, I'm just happy with my 8-10psi on my IDI.
 

kent01

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Falling in its face is from overfuelimg down low with no boost, at 1000 rpms my pump puts out like 104cc and drops to 96 at 2800. But I quickly run out of a volume of fuel which led me to belive it's my lift pump just haven't hadn't time to change it out yet or go electric with it
I bought an Edelbrock universal electric pump from O'Riley's.
It's diesel specific. (Green)
Mounted it on a home made bracket
Inside the frame near the stock lift pump. Works great. EZ to prime after filter changes.

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ISPKI

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have you tested your fuel pressure under load, still running with a mechanical lift pump? it might be dropping to zero, or even creating a vacuum, not good for the transfer pump in the IP...

the measurements are all over the map for an hx 40, seems like its just the throat of the compressor cover thats been measured..... we have never ran a CKO turbo(CKO=Chinese Knock Off), and probably never will, always been more hands on just to build our own from genuine cores......

I agree, the measurements are all kind of weird, however it appears to have the correct number of blades for an hx super 40 (10 instead of 12) and I asked them for different measurements which stacked up to what I read matches a super 40.

I just picked up new wheels and tires for my rig - factory alcoas - I have a tree job coming up which will fund the turbo build. I am thinking I will spring for the cheapo turbo now, put together a setup. If it fails down the road, I can move up to a bigger better turbo.
 

laserjock

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I just picked up new wheels and tires for my rig - factory alcoas - I have a tree job coming up which will fund the turbo build. I am thinking I will spring for the cheapo turbo now, put together a setup. If it fails down the road, I can move up to a bigger better turbo.
The danger in that plan is what if the turbo takes something else out when it goes. Who cares if it’s less efficient but sending junk through my engine if it comes apart is a no-starter.
 

ISPKI

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Yep, that is certainly a good point. I figured the seals would fail and start leaking oil before anything else.

The project is moving along, just picked up a banks boost gauge and pyrometer gauge with probe off a 12v cummins for dirt cheap.
 

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