"Rebuilt" 6.9 idi with ARP studs - don't want to ruin this one too!!

ConstantVigilance

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Update:

I started this thread and listed like 8 questions and I got some great feedback - thank you everyone.

As for question 1: I am attempting to "fix" that injector port with fine strand copper wire. Saw someone do this to "repair" an aluminum NON CRITICAL part. So far, I was able to get the injector to torque down. Before, the injector would just spin back out. I went to 35 lbs and than about an 8th of a turn. There is no fuel leak but I have yet to drive the truck at higher rpms.

Question 6: Glow plugs. I burned up another set. I had replaced the set and ran around the block. Burned those up. That makes 5 sets total. I'm going to pull some used plugs from a donor engine and run those once I figure out the timing issue and why they would be burning up.

I've finally got the truck running. When I went to look at my timing, I loosened the bolts and the pump moved a lot. It shifted counter clockwise. I understand that this is ADVANCING the timing. So, if the pump wanted to turn counter clockwise, perhaps it had to much retard in the timing. Would THAT burn up my plugs?

So, while I can start the truck after I plug the engine warmer in for 2 hours, She takes way more cranking then what she should. I have a high torque starter, and when she was running good, she would start almost immediately.

I don't mind if my fuel economy suffers, I just want her to start and run.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

79jasper

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No, retarded timing won't. I think that makes it harder to start. Will also run hotter.
I forgot, are you running the stock controller? Or a switch?
And how do the timing marks on the pump look? Though they may not mean much, you may try lining them up. Only real way will be a meter.

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Mulochico

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If the things you are looking at bring you near Ashland I would love to get together and pay you to time my truck :)

Hey I already did once. :D When I picked up the bumper a few years back. You need it done again? ;Poke Just harassing, I check mine around every 10,000 if I have time.
 

ConstantVigilance

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No, retarded timing won't. I think that makes it harder to start. Will also run hotter.
I forgot, are you running the stock controller? Or a switch?
And how do the timing marks on the pump look? Though they may not mean much, you may try lining them up. Only real way will be a meter.

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I guess that can be good news. It sounds like since it's hard to start I need to advance the time in a little bit more. As for the glow plugs. I don't have the relay module hooked up at all. I'm running off of a switch. As for the marks on the injection pump, it's a moose pump. And I can't seem to see any lines on the pump at all. You can see the center line on the casting, and that's what I am trying to line up with the mark on the cam gear housing thing.

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ConstantVigilance

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Have you confirmed with a test-light that the glow plugs are not powered all the time that the key is on?
I've confirmed with my 12v tester. I was burning up my glow plugs long before I burned up my motor. And the fact that I'm now burning them glow plugs still, makes me believe that I brought the problem with me. When I first burned up the glow plugs I switched over to a manual controlled switch. I followed instructions, on a thread. Those instructions still incorporated the globe plug module, now however, I completely bypass that module and just have that relay running the glow plugs.

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ReeferMadness

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I read about a 6.9 glow plug conversion that fried multiple sets of glow plugs because of a bad solenoid. I would be suspicious of the solenoid sticking on and frying them. Did you ever see a car or truck keep cranking over even after you've released the key? A temporary light in the cab, wired off the high amp "glow plug side" of the solenoid would tell you what the solenoid's doing once it's running.
 

homelessduck

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Hey I already did once. :D When I picked up the bumper a few years back. You need it done again? ;Poke Just harassing, I check mine around every 10,000 if I have time.

Ya but see, I go through trucks. I have commitment issues. :D My new truck came with bad head gaskets so I had to tear it down , now it needs timed :)
 

ConstantVigilance

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I read about a 6.9 glow plug conversion that fried multiple sets of glow plugs because of a bad solenoid. I would be suspicious of the solenoid sticking on and frying them. Did you ever see a car or truck keep cranking over even after you've released the key? A temporary light in the cab, wired off the high amp "glow plug side" of the solenoid would tell you what the solenoid's doing once it's running.
That's a good idea. I should have done something like already. I would at least be able to see a light while I'm holding the glow plug trigger down. The relay is newish, ( replaced it when I was having the glow plug issues) but it's an off the shelf O'Reilly unit.

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ReeferMadness

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It would rule that out as the glow plug problem, but is sounding less likely to be the problem if the solenoid's new. I wish I could offer more insight, but I know little about the 6.9L. I have a running one in my garage that was in an 86 plowtruck I used 'til I got my SuperDuty. I'd offer it to you for parts if you weren't on the wrong coast!
 
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ConstantVigilance

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Update:
I've had the truck running for a couple of weeks now. I've been chasing down fuel leaks and Air in the system. I think I have the fuel leaks all patched up.

I do have an oil leak at the front of the oil pan, that may need to be addressed. I don't actually get any oil on the ground, but I am definitely losing oil. It looks as if it's being blown towards the rear of the truck and just getting everything else nasty.

My main concern is why I keep burning up glow plugs. I decided to run a inexpensive experiment. I installed one glow plug in the front of the motor on the driver side where it's easy to access. I don't even have the glow plug plugged in. Actually none of the glow plugs are plugged in. So I started the truck with the engine block heater which I feel takes a little too long to do. With my 7.3 liter it took about an hour, this truck takes at least 2 hours. That is to say, that running the engine heater for an hour on my 7.3 liter was all required to start the truck. This truck needs at least 2 hours and still is difficult to start.

So, I start the truck and take it for a 20 minute drive. I get back, pull the glow plug and it's burned out.

Again, I want to emphasize that I didn't have the glow plug plugged in or did I use it to start the truck.

Any help would be much appreciated thank you in advance

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79jasper

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If you go back, I'm fairly certain I said timing too far advanced will burn them up......

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ConstantVigilance

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If you go back, I'm fairly certain I said timing too far advanced will burn them up......

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I definitely remember that. I was afraid that I was off timing somehow. When I originally pulled injection pump off this rebuilt 6.9 L I had to pull the entire housing with it because it was different than my 7.3 housing. So I may have had the timing off by entire tooth. Which would have explained why it was so difficult to get the truck to start. But I am very certain now that the injection pump gear and the cam gear are lined up correctly. As far as where I have the injection pump it's self-timed I have it probably 1/16 of an inch towards the passenger side which would be as far as I know advanced but just a smidgen. That is to say that I put the injection pump as Center as I could and then moved it as sixteenths of an inch toward the passenger side. But I also think that if it was too advanced I wouldn't get so much smoke. While I get a lot of smoke while it's warming up I still get it some smoke while I'm just idling after the truck is warmed up.

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