IDI injector replacement, Copper washer stuck

ABNORDY

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All 8 of my copper washers was stuck on the bores, it took a long time to get 2 of them out with a screwdriver, so I went to a hardware store and bought a 5 inch lag bolt 5/16 thread. I screwed it into each washer 2 or 3 threads and wth a little help from a flat pry bar and a Chuck of wood, I was able to pop the rest out with just a little bit of work.

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needlenose

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A really easy way to loosen washers is to just back off the injector one turn and start the engine for about 5-6 seconds. Rev it once or twice. The washer will be loose when you pull the injector.
 

ISPKI

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Thanks for this thread, im looking at doing my injector after winter is over and theres a ton of great tips here. Did you go with all Delphi's? Why are they they the recommended manufacturer?
 

Macrobb

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Just a warning: do not use Pensacola or other "remanufactured" injectors. Bought a set before I knew better, and while they worked fine at first, within about 5k miles they were junk. I got a pressure tester and found like 500 psi of varience within the set, one leaker, and one basically stuck open.
I use R&D injectors these days, because they have brand new nozzles. I checked a set after 10K or so, and they were all within a 100 psi range, near as I could tell... perfectly fine. And the spray pattern and leakage were good too.
 

ABNORDY

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A really easy way to loosen washers is to just back off the injector one turn and start the engine for about 5-6 seconds. Rev it once or twice. The washer will be loose when you pull the injector.
That would be great if the vehicle had been in running order at the time.
 

vegas39

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I bought two brand new sets of stanadyne injectors off eBay, one for my sons truck and one for mine.
I had an issue with my truck running bad after 1,000 miles, so I changed them all out again.
Turns out I had one go bad.
Anytime I've ever bought new injectors, seems like one goes south after a few hundred miles.
It wouldn't hurt to buy an extra one or two to keep on hand.
 

ISPKI

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How do they really "go bad"? The mechanism is so simple I just dont get what is actually failing on them? My co worker used to just clean and rebuild them with new seals and springs. He kept a spare set that was freshly rebuilt at all times.
 

vegas39

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How do they really "go bad"? The mechanism is so simple I just dont get what is actually failing on them? My co worker used to just clean and rebuild them with new seals and springs. He kept a spare set that was freshly rebuilt at all times.

Not sure what goes bad in them. I've never seen one apart.
I must have at least 3 old sets laying around. Guess I should take one apart and see what it looks like
 

Thewespaul

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How do they really "go bad"? The mechanism is so simple I just dont get what is actually failing on them? My co worker used to just clean and rebuild them with new seals and springs. He kept a spare set that was freshly rebuilt at all times.
The main wear item is the nozzle, these are simple injectors but over time their pop pressure decreases which makes for a poor spray pattern. Also the nozzle can be clogged with carbon causing poor spray pattern or cause the injector to hang open, dumping fuel into your engine.

You can clean and reset the pop pressures in these injectors to get yourself by, but the nozzle does wear and will need to be replaced to return the injectors to their original performance when new.
 

79jasper

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I bought two brand new sets of stanadyne injectors off eBay, one for my sons truck and one for mine.
I had an issue with my truck running bad after 1,000 miles, so I changed them all out again.
Turns out I had one go bad.
Anytime I've ever bought new injectors, seems like one goes south after a few hundred miles.
It wouldn't hurt to buy an extra one or two to keep on hand.
I think I would be buying better quality injectors.

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