79jasper
Chickenhawk
Sweet custom spacer. Lol
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Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Antarctic IDI Build
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
frankenwrench
overkill is under rated!
Just out last year huh? Makes me feel old. I got out 2012 shortly after second deployment.
Tristan
Full Access Member
Old? Shoot I got out in 1999...
frankenwrench
overkill is under rated!
Feeling alot better now! Thanks
while we are on the subject
I do have a 95 dually 4x4 7.3 idi its my back up truck (dump bed) my problem is this, the IDI clicks and clacks like a bad lifter and it just will not start below 40 F without a block heater but it does start and with little smoke (puff at startup or up hill) inside the cab after its warmed up I cant hear the clicking and it seams to be running smooth at speed, no chugging or surging.
I was told that it was a 93 replacement engine out of an ambulance with 40K on it it now has less than 100k.
the previous owner put all of the 95 stuff (turbo) on this 93.
Except for the clicking its been good engine
I have systematicly replaced everything as they failed (starter, injector pump, lift pump etc.) oh and the compression test was from 380-410 if i remember correctly, so i think you all world agree that except for the supposed lifter noise its a solid diesel?...no? clicking doesnt keep me awake at night but it does drive me nuts to start it
Well the IDI stopped production in 94, so unless everything was swapped into your truck you have a power stroke
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I was gonna hash on the same thing. Lol
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Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Today I started on disc brake conversion- the first step towards the hydro boost conversion. Started on driverside and found the rear brakes stuck on, fought the drum for awhile and finally got it apart, passenger side was a breeze.
Pulled the brackets out of their packaging and painted them then gave them a good layer of undercoating.
I’ve got everything torn down to the hub, gonna pick up the special nut socket you need to remove the hub and backing plate, I’ve removed these with a punch on my own trucks but I’d like to not do that on this rig.
Cleaned up and called it a night and drove home through this to a dinner of fried chicken
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Pulled the brackets out of their packaging and painted them then gave them a good layer of undercoating.
You must be registered for see images attach
I’ve got everything torn down to the hub, gonna pick up the special nut socket you need to remove the hub and backing plate, I’ve removed these with a punch on my own trucks but I’d like to not do that on this rig.
You must be registered for see images attach
Cleaned up and called it a night and drove home through this to a dinner of fried chicken
You must be registered for see images attach
79jasper
Chickenhawk
It's not brought up here, but it's not a terrible idea to use loctite on the axle shaft bolts.
Especially if it has a lsd/locker.
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Especially if it has a lsd/locker.
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yes, I have seen them come loose.
in the third picture, holly lift blocks batman.. I can see the spring pack is thick but that will cause some serious axle wrap.
Block on blocks! Matt mentioned he wants to lower the rear to make it level so I’m sure some of those will come out or it will get some proper lift springs. Priority right now is make it a driver and then we’ll start the next stage of upgrades. I’ll make sure to through some locktite on those bolts, thanks guys!
Thatoneguy
Full Access Member
That what I was gonna say. At least throw a wrap bar on there. Heck, I would throw a wrap bar even with lift springs... Looking good @Thewespaul!
Either lock tight the bolts or convert it to studs. Never had a problem once we swapped them to studs. Eventually I will do it on my wheeler, the spool shakes them loose after a couple trips
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Studs would be the prefered method.
I had part numbers from ARP, but I would have to find them.
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I had part numbers from ARP, but I would have to find them.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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