6.9 Superduty

0 Xero 0 · Sep 21, 2017

Did you resolve your power and tranny issues? Also, something I've been pondering is how much harder it is (or isn't) since this truck was designed to work on the engine with the cab off. Have you had any trouble with this? I've thought about a conversion similar to this.

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DaveBen · Sep 21, 2017

This sounds like a Super Duty Diesel 6.0 problem. You need to lift the cab about 6 inches to a foot, to get the heads off. No room to lift them off with the cab bolted down.

0 Xero 0 · Sep 21, 2017

Oops, I thought this was an 03 6.0 truck. My mistake!

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Mikey89014 · Nov 1, 2017

0 Xero 0 said:
Did you resolve your power and tranny issues? Also, something I've been pondering is how much harder it is (or isn't) since this truck was designed to work on the engine with the cab off. Have you had any trouble with this? I've thought about a conversion similar to this.

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yes, I bought a large 36-1 trigger wheel which is the same tooth count as 5.4 original. I then fabricated a trigger system to simulate the engine crank sensor from the 5.4
The factory tach works now and the trans pressure went through the roof on all gears. The only problem I'm having is when i plug in the TPS, the shift points are way way too high, even with the TPS adjusted way retarded. If i unplug the TPS, it shifts soon and solid in all gears ,which is good enough for me.

I only have to wire a lockup switch in for the torque converter lockup..

Thanks, Mike

Mikey89014 · May 9, 2018

Well Guys, I just pulled the auto and installed an NP435. Next I will install 4.10's again and 35 tires. This will be 2500 at 65 in direct.

pastorjeep · May 9, 2018

Was this because you never got the auto working to your satisfaction? I ask because i remained interested in the viability of the 4r100 with these old IDI's.

Mikey89014 · May 9, 2018

Yes, i wasn't able to get the proper shift points for one reason , and the main reason was because the torque converter lockup wasn't working.

It was getting a signal to lock up, it just wasn't locking up I think because of a problem in the pump that I overlooked.

If the lockup would have worked properly, I would have kept it in. Without lockup there was a tremendous amount of heat generated in overdrive, which creates a great deal of friction without lockup, especially going up a grade. i had to compensate by running in second up a grade to keep the heat down. It was getting so hot that the internal trans cooler was heating the coolant and running the engine hot as well...

pastorjeep · May 9, 2018

nelstomlinson · May 10, 2018

needlenose said:
From what I understand, compliance just means the computer is there, reporting engine operation, and is the proper version for the year model.

Would it be possible to give the computer fake inputs so it thinks it's reporting engine operation? Then you could be in compliance without having the computerized engine.

Mikey89014 · May 17, 2018

Well, I got the 4 speed conversion pretty much finished and the 4.10 gears reinstalled . I also added a factory skid plate underneath for the transfer case.

Next time I will add the Powertrax locker up front and get the front driveshaft shortened for the transmission swap.

Right now i am spinning 2700 rpm at 65. I am wondering if I should buy 35 inch tires next time, or if that rpm is ok..

pastorjeep · May 18, 2018

2700 might make her a little thirsty.

Mikey89014 · May 19, 2018

pastorjeep said:
2700 might make her a little thirsty.

That' what I'm thinking too. 35 tires will bring it down to 2500 at 65 , which is a decent all around highway rpm.

Changing oil again tomorrow and might install my cast iron axle cover.

Mikey89014 · Jul 9, 2018

Well, I installed a new pump because the other was leaking out the weep hole and the between the block and timing gear cover. Pep Boys has a Standard Motor Products brand pump for $350 exchange, which was cheaper by far than anyone, even Amazon.

Got the the NP435 all dialed in as well.

Now I will install the front lunch box locker in the carrier and reseal the front axle while its apart..

Right now I am still trying to find the best setting for the injection timing. I am using my Kent Moore J33300 with the piezo pickup right now and it is set at 8.2 BTDC. It seems a little noisy and lower power on the bottom end. I will try it with the luminosity attachment next time..

Anyone have experience with the best setting on the timing for power and economy?

pastorjeep · Jul 9, 2018

I like the piezo pickup on mine and I set to 9 BTDC.

Mikey89014 · Jul 9, 2018

Sounds quite noisy at this setting to me.

I used the luminosity probe this time to set and I have to say, there is quite a difference in the two methods as far as outcome is concerned.

With the luminosity probe, I had to turn the pump a dime's width to the driver's side in order to get the 4 degrees ATDC setting. With the 9 degrees BTDC setting using the pulse method, It was turned in the opposite direction to get the setting.

With the luminosity setting, it has more off the line power and less smoke.

This tells me either the pulse setting is erroneous as opposed to the setting. Some manuals says 3.5 BTDc, some say 6 BTDC and now 9 BTDC.

It seems with the 3.5 BTDC pulse setting, it would be close to setting used in 4 degree ATDC luminosity setting, so this what I will use from now on when timing my engine..

6.9 Superduty

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