Rear end question

I replaced my rear end a while back and have been having a ting noise when I shift/ take off. It was a lower millage junk yard unit I had to change the yoke on it out for mine because it came with one too small for my u joint and it acts loose but the nut holding it in cannot go any tighter than it is. How do I fix this? What parts need or did I install it wrong somehow ? The yoke difference I belive was because it came off a auto truck. It's a 1 ton rear end that was a match for my truck they said the speed-abs? Sensor plugged in so it wasn't any older than my year I don't think?

Maybe the bearing's bad?

Bearing tight the yoke itself almost seems it doesn't fit like it's too long? I heard something about long and short yoke rear ends. Like older have long ones and newer take a short one maybe but I'm not sure, if their cheap and I can identify which rear end and year it actually is I could buy a new one?

Having recently looked into yokes, I believe what I have read says the longer splines are 92+ and 91 down has the shorter splines.

Can't remember where, maybe Denny's driveshaft website said 3.5" tall is long splines and like 3-1/8 is short? I could be wrong though...

The change is about '92. Older is short. Newer is long. Yoke has to match the length of spline on the pinion gear.

Good idea to put in a crush-sleeve eliminator while you're at it.

93 is the change over year from short to long spline pinion yoke, if the yoke you pulled off has F3xx (1993) engraved on it and your the one you swapped on has Exxx (198x) your rear end is going to be hurting very bad if you have driven much at all.

If you put a short spline yoke on a long spline pinion the nut will bottom out before you ever get the bearing preload correct. With the wrong yoke on the pinion you will have about a half inch of in out play and the bearings will be toast, the carrier will be machined by the pinion gear and your gear pattern will be worn weird.

When you start driving the pinion gets pushed into the bearing away from the carrier, on decal or coast the pinion will get sucked into the carrier and is the noise you are hearing.

See if you can pull or push in the yoke on your axle, if it moves a lot start looking for another axle, if it moves a little you may still be lucky and be able to tighten the nut and crush the crush sleeve.

Also the crush sleeve can take up to 500 foot pounds to start crushing.

CSEK is a great idea if u are comfortable doing so...but means new seal and ope ing up the housing to install it.

I hope I didn't kill my rear end, the people at the yard said to use my yoke off the old one and it will work on the new one, it sounds like if it's the wrong one my rear end should have died already though it's been 10k plus miles and a couple years of driving since so maybe it's just not tight enough, so how tight should I tighten the nut on the yoke if I try to retorque it? I had to pay 350 for this one and I don't have the funds to replace it again.. I don't know much about rear ends other than I changed mine because the last one shoved the pinion into the ring gear

The only way to get the right torque value is to remove the axle shafts, remove the carrier and use an inch pound indicator to measure pinion bearing preload. You will have to slowly crank down on the pinion nut and check preload to set it right, this is assuming you have the right yoke on your axle to begin with.

So I have to tear the whole axle down to a shell to tighten the yoke? They should have told me this while I was at the junk yard.. I was wanting a bolt and go for 350 dollars

pelky350 said:

So I have to tear the whole axle down to a shell to tighten the yoke? They should have told me this while I was at the junk yard.. I was wanting a bolt and go for 350 dollars

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That sounds awefully $pendy...new is about that price too..

riotwarrior said:

That sounds awefully $pendy...new is about that price too..

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I think he got a whole axle and was told to reuse his old yoke?

I paid $350 for an axle for my 1/2 ton Chevy, only to find it didn't come with drums and needed a new cover! (An extra $150 or so all said and done...)

I got the whole axle drum to drum that had newer brakes and drums on it, they did have me to use my old yoke because the one on it was too small for my truck but failed to tell me what was involved in changing it out. Other than they said to bolt it on and it's ready to go

People at wrecking yards don't always know the ins and outs of what they sell.

The yoke and pinion have to match in length on their spline interface.

You can't specify a torque value with a used crush sleeve and used bearings. The crush-sleeve eliminator lets you duplicate the old crush-sleeve's size (and remains static) so you can torque it to full factory rebuild specs without overloading the used bearings.

So working on it now, I can move truck back and forth and noticeable axle wrap in gear and a clunking noise, u joints look good and carrier being also, almost sounds like tranfercase or transmission noise?