WHICH YEAR READ ENDS FIT THE 1992 F250 PICKUP??

satx78247

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Friends,

Probably a DUMB question BUT I've found a one-owner 1992 extended cab f250 XLT diesel with ZF, with 157,000 original miles, which has most everything that I want in another PU, except that it's a 4.10 limited-slip rear end.

I'd like to swap out the rear end for a 3.55 for more road speed/better fuel mileage, so I need to know WHICH rear ends that are a direct fit for the 1992 F250.

yours, satx
 

riotwarrior

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I get better mileage w 4.10 and better towing....runs bout 500 rpm more is all....doo the math...hardly worth the difference.
 

satx78247

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IDIoit; riotwarrior,

THANKS Gents.

I also would like a source for OEM gray cloth upholstery to recover the 1992 bucket seats.
(NO seat covers PLEASE.)

yours, satx
 
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FORDF250HDXLT

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Friends,

Probably a DUMB question BUT I've found a one-owner 1992 extended cab f250 XLT diesel with ZF, with 157,000 original miles, which has most everything that I want in another PU, except that it's a 4.10 limited-slip rear end.

I'd like to swap out the rear end for a 3.55 for more road speed/better fuel mileage, so I need to know WHICH rear ends that are a direct fit for the 1992 F250.

yours, satx

For a direct fit,you will need a 1985 - 1992.However,if you have a ZF5 trans and want your speedometer and ABS to work,you'll need one of the latter ones (like around 1989 ish? and up) and if you have an E4OD trans,then you'll need one with the tone ring, as it needs the tone ring/VSS signal for the trans to work.


You can use the 93-97 rear (all of which have the tone ring/ABS/VSS) which is actually the better rear with an updated,larger yoke.
You would just need to make sure your driveshaft isn't too long and you would need to swap u-joints and strap styles.
Ideally,you'll look for one these rears but either are good.

Ford 10.25 & 10.50-Inch Axle Tips - Axle Examination
 

Macrobb

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Honestly, though... Either keep the existing rear end and just install a new set of gears in it, or just pull the gear set and pinion out of your 3.55 donor.

Swapping gears in a Sterling 10.25 is /easy/, not particularly expensive or anything. I've disassembled one in perhaps an hour?

Just remember that you'll have to do the same to the front axle as well. Another option(especially if you are going to be towing) is to get ahold of a GearVendor overdrive or other overdrive unit.
While the more expensive option, the 4.10s are great for towing. The double-OD of a unit like that is good for highway cruising and light towing at 65+MPH.
 

riotwarrior

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As I said....look at pic from gear ratio chat for 33" tyres and 3.55 vs 4.11...keep yer gears...there just isnt the difference needed to make a big difference IMHO unless yer building some super race truck.
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satx78247

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riotwarrior,

THANKS.

Fwiw, the 2wd 1992 F250 will mostly be used as a "third vehicle" (For around town, I usually drive a 1995 MB C220 & Darla drives her 2014 Honda CRV.) for general transportation of things/people & will occasionally tow a 18 foot tin boat (with a pair of 35HP OBs) in a light trailer, that weighs (gross) less than 1500#.

Over 20MPG & a "easy" cruising speed of 75-80MPH on the open road would be NICE.
(The PU that I had stolen a month ago got 20-22MPH on I-35, numerous times, even loaded with all the "girl-stuff" that a woman likes/wants to haul on out-of-town trips. = When my late wife & I traveled abroad for weeks at a time, she had 6-8 assorted pieces of luggage. I took my old rucksack & a 2-suiter Samsonite hard-sided case.)

Note: The last time that my beloved/departed "VK" & I traveled OCONUS for 3 weeks, she packed 5 evening gowns, 8 cocktail dresses & EIGHTEEN pairs of shoes/sandals/boots. = She packed/took 11 suitcases plus a "roll-on".
(My adult daughter tends to "pack" about the same way, too.)

yours, satx
 
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satx78247

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To ALL,

IF anyone knows of a COMPLETE & functional Gear Vendors OD to fit a 2WD, 1992 F250 with ZF for sale (at a reasonable price), I would be very interested.

yours, satx
 

towcat

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To ALL,

IF anyone knows of a COMPLETE & functional Gear Vendors OD to fit a 2WD, 1992 F250 with ZF for sale (at a reasonable price), I would be very interested.

yours, satx
a GV for a 2wd ZF is a very expensive proposition. Due to the design of the tailhousing, your only practical choice is by replacing the center support bearing with the ZF unit. Now is where the fun part begins. With the two driveshaft segments turning at 2 different speeds, you will encounter vibration phasing issues to drive you nuts.
 

satx78247

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towcat,

THANKS. = NO auxiliary OD set-up for me, given your WISE advice.
(At 70YY, that's just one more "source of aggravation" that I don't need. = I had been told that these units, while $$$$, worked well.)

I'll just have the rear end "swapped out" with a similar unit (I know where a low-mileage 1993 totaled F250, that was in a "roll-over" MVA, is in a local wrecking yard) & forget doing anything else.

ONE of the great things about this forum is the wealth of knowledge among our membership & the useful advice/help that is offered to others.

ADDENDA: The PU is predominantly OXFORD WHITE & MEDIUM PLATINUM on the side panels. = PURTY truck.

yours, satx
 
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Macrobb

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Now is where the fun part begins. With the two driveshaft segments turning at 2 different speeds, you will encounter vibration phasing issues to drive you nuts.
I... don't think this is right. First off, you are talking about a divorced overdrive unit. They do sell them, so they ought to work fine. I believe people also have divorced transfer cases as well.

As far as vibrations go, I don't see why it would be nearly as big a problem as you think - Each driveshaft segment would need to have two U-joints, one on each end. As long as each shaft is balanced by itself, and the GV unit is offset correctly(so the angle of the input shaft on the GV unit matches the same angle of the output shaft on the transmission), the phasing will cancel itself out on /each/ shaft independently. Thus, them running at different speeds(or the same speed) would not make any difference.


Back to the OP, just putting a 3.55 rear end is a much better idea, because you are only a 2wd truck. Replacing the rear gears is easy, the front as well is double the cost, and harder as well.
 
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