In reading that guide, he discusses some precautions with that. Thanks for the Info guys!I think (totally guessing) that you should be more concerned with how you're going to get what IS going to fall in there out... And I have no idea for that lol. I would say you could try removing the glow plug a put high pressure air going from there through it and maybe be able to blow some of it back the other way if the pressure is high enough. Use duct tape or something to funnel all the air you can get through the glow plug hole. ?????
So that's a valve cover gasket then? I'll have to order a couple in. The filter was just installed, so I don't think it's coming from there. Is filthy even above that, which lead me to believe the oil cooler is at least one of the offenders here.I needed to replace the left rocker cover gasket to cure the oil running down the block onto the filter problem. From your picture, it doesn't appear the oil is coming from the filter not seating, or at least not ONLY from there.
I can only say in my case it was...So that's a valve cover gasket then? I'll have to order a couple in. The filter was just installed, so I don't think it's coming from there. Is filthy even above that, which lead me to believe the oil cooler is at least one of the offenders here.
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Do you have any knowledge on the front main seal? I'm hesitant to buy the seal when the tool to install it is $100 and then the harmonic balancer is anothe $70 assuming I need to replace it.I can only say in my case it was...
I'm in Mount Vernon Ohio. If you'd like to come help, I'd be more than happy to have it; but that's a bit of an adventure at 2 hours. I'll PM you.Where are you at in Ohio? I'm in Delphos OH, 15 miles West of Lima
To clean the injector bore threads, use a 12 Ga. shotgun brush preferably the brass brush, any dirt will collect in the precup, use a shop vac in the injector hole, blow air in the GP hole, the vac will suck all/any dirt out.
When you crank the engine over for compression check, the fuel was coming out the return line because the return line was still connected to the filter.
One pic shows how the IP fuel shutoff is.
Your compression check looks good, specs are from 250 to 450 PSI cold.
Can't comment on your IP, don't know enough about why you think it's bad.
Front seal changing, be careful pulling the damper pulley, it's a two piece with rubber between the outer and inner parts. It's difficult to do without pulling the radiator for room to work.
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Well, that certainly makes sense! I wouldn't work on anything either.At 89 yrs old, I don't do work anymore, just advice.
That one injector you showed, it must not have been seated, water got down to it and rusted the barrel, possibly some combustion got up in there also.
I've seen a number of rusty injectors along with not-so-rusty ones; pretty sure what happens is just water getting on top of the motor(can happen due to a leaky cowl seal, or simply driving in the rain) and slowly works it's way down through the threads. It doesn't take long, either - I've had rust appear after only a few months.Yeah, a couple others have mentioned that was likely a contributing factor to the injector being rusty.
I pressed one in with a block of wood and an arbor press; you've just got to get it straight.Do you have any experience installing s front main seal without the tool? Seems like people have problems even installing it with the tool.
I decided to check, and I think mine are also leaking !I can only say in my case it was...