E40D with no Tach and hard shifts 1990 F250

GadgetTech3D

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Hello all,
I know this topic has been beat to death and I have tried to go over them all but I am in need of a double check before I get a new TCM. We swapped motor to replace a broken one, everything is hooked up, all the ground are in place, no blown fuses although at first the stoplight/overdrive one was blown but it was replaced. All the other gauges and electrical works, heck even the ac and all the grounds are attached but no joy on the tach.
I have verified the relay, main power feed, voltage, resistance on the sensor, continuity all the way back to the TCM, variation in signal from the sensor during rpm change and still nothing. I have no lights on the OD switch at all and it does not illuminate. It moves in all directions but in d it acts like its in fourth. I also check and cleaned/reseated both connectors on the trans. Can anyone thing of anything I missed or something else I can check? Thank you in advance.
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Sounds like you have a cluster issue. My trans is acting the same way but my speedo/odo died. There's a p-som on the back that sends speed signal to the trans to help tell it when to shift. I wonder if it also uses a tach input?
 

GadgetTech3D

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Sounds like you have a cluster issue. My trans is acting the same way but my speedo/odo died. There's a p-som on the back that sends speed signal to the trans to help tell it when to shift. I wonder if it also uses a tach input?
Hmm, In all the articles I read on the site about the issue I thought that the consensus was that the TCM got the signal and then it relayed that to the tach. I will try anything at this point though. I can hook a varistor on a battery and see if I can get the gauge to move. That might rule that out. Thank you, I will update when I'm done testing that.
 

hoodshauler

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Was this motor you put in out of a truck with a auto transmission? if not did you swap the TPS to the new engine. Never had an auto transmission but as I recall from others here you have to have that for the tranny to work right and it may have something to do with your tach also :dunno
 

OLDBULL8

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1990 E4OD. There is a transmitter on the tranny for the cable driven speedometer, might even call it a VSS, it has a two wire connector, that transmits a signal to the EEC-4. Check the connection.

Circuit is from the 89 Ford manual.

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GadgetTech3D

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Was this motor you put in out of a truck with a auto transmission? if not did you swap the TPS to the new engine. Never had an auto transmission but as I recall from others here you have to have that for the tranny to work right and it may have something to do with your tach also :dunno
I'm not sure really, it was out of a parts hauler so you would think. It is worth a shot to try it though, thank you. For the VSS I will check that as well. I have a good speedometer but maybe the electrical isn't functioning so I'll try that too. Thank you as well.
 

GadgetTech3D

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On a pre 92 E4OD you can ave a perfect working speedometer and a failed VSS. Speedometer is cable driven through the VSS.
Update time, I transferred the TPS out of the old engine and into the new one, no dice. Checked continuity on the VSS wiring, all good. I don't know how I would go about checking the output without channeling my inner Keanu and doing some speed stuff. Any diag possible on a VSS? Also I double checked the other plug on the tranny and something I noticed is someone didn't put the locking tab into the deutsch connector on the passenger side one. All the pins are good but it would be nice to get that pin lock tab to rule it out. It looks like a 12P I think but I can't find any castings on the plug. I don't suppose anyone knows that either and maybe a pinout for that plug? My googlefoo is failing me. Thank you all again.
 

GadgetTech3D

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For more information, I took it out and shifting to one and two acts the same so I think they both are in 2nd and D acts like its in fourth. When I was probing with the power probe I have some fuses that read bat voltage while others read less then 12 at 11.7 or there abouts. Could it be possible for a bad regulator to cause this issue because its like the trans doesn't get power even though the EEC relay is workings as it should.
 

The Bus

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I know this sounds odd, but check your brake lights and connectors. I ran into shifting problems coming home after tailgating.

I needed to replace a rough looking Tach Sensor (I shot a sheet metal screw in the top to hold the wire on it so I could go tailgating :Thumbs Up). I replaced it and it appeared to be working OK.

Then I take off to go tailgating again about a week later and no problem until I headed home. It would shift, then it wouldn't shift correctly, then it would just stay in third with OD on.

I check some trans connectors and ran a couple of test. Nothing appeared wrong. I was stumped to say the least.

Then I read on here about some the issues caused by the brake light circuit. So I checked some things and I ended up removing my external lights on my receiver platform (haul my grill on it), cleaned up some of wiring issues, replaced some bulbs, and all is good.

Lot's of good info on this site about this subject, just do a search

Here is a link to another site with a good overview on the e40d:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f198/what-i-ve-learned-about-e4od-240457/
 

GadgetTech3D

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I know this sounds odd, but check your brake lights and connectors. I ran into shifting problems coming home after tailgating.

I needed to replace a rough looking Tach Sensor (I shot a sheet metal screw in the top to hold the wire on it so I could go tailgating :Thumbs Up). I replaced it and it appeared to be working OK.

Then I take off to go tailgating again about a week later and no problem until I headed home. It would shift, then it wouldn't shift correctly, then it would just stay in third with OD on.

I check some trans connectors and ran a couple of test. Nothing appeared wrong. I was stumped to say the least.

Then I read on here about some the issues caused by the brake light circuit. So I checked some things and I ended up removing my external lights on my receiver platform (haul my grill on it), cleaned up some of wiring issues, replaced some bulbs, and all is good.

Lot's of good info on this site about this subject, just do a search

Here is a link to another site with a good overview on the e40d:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f198/what-i-ve-learned-about-e4od-240457/
Oh yeah, I already crawled through I think it was this same post but thank you all the same because there is some very good info. Yep, I remember someone posting a warning saying don't use your hazards while driving with the E40D because it uses the brake light signal to send a lock-unlock signal to the TC. I did have a blown fuse on that circuit making me think after going through all the tests that an amperage spike somehow took out the brain. From the last tests that I did even with the power getting to the relay its looking more and more that power isn't being applied to the trany because it won't shift in D at all. I'm going to go through the grounds one more time, add even more but it seams to be more and more the brain is dead. Thank you very much for your help though, that's one of the many reasons I tried here first instead of... other sites...
 

trackspeeder

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Passenger side connector is the solenoid pack connector. Replace it if it is broken. You can get it from a good parts store.
A bad alternator will make the E4 go nuts. It should be fully functional, just some funky shifting issues.
From the description, the TCM has no power. Have you checked for water damage. Ford is notorious for water cooled electronics. :D
 

GadgetTech3D

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Passenger side connector is the solenoid pack connector. Replace it if it is broken. You can get it from a good parts store.
A bad alternator will make the E4 go nuts. It should be fully functional, just some funky shifting issues.
From the description, the TCM has no power. Have you checked for water damage. Ford is notorious for water cooled electronics. :D
Connectors all look and feel fine. Pins are clean and straight, none burnt. Alternator outputs a smooth 13.6 up to 14.2 at what I'm guessing is 2k ish with a non-RMS meter. I just got my power probe back in there today, hot wired the relay to power the TCS and observed voltage at TCM, passenger side plug on trans and drivers side. I had voltage at all pins minus ground, although it was at 9 volts on the non-batt voltage ones which seams odd... I have had a look in the TCS itself and didn't see anywhere the magic smoke would have escaped and no water logging or cracked solder joints. Without checking every singe component on the TCS I'm still at a loss. Even removed the old trailer brake system and the harness for the goose neck wiring and stuff and nothing at all and I added two more ground straps and even rigged on to the body of the tcs and the trans for the lols. Thank you for your input thought, it is all appreciated very much.
 

OLDBULL8

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Don't see where your tach is working yet,
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GadgetTech3D

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Don't see where your tach is working yet,
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Alright, well new ECUIV, thingy it is... Sad face. It should be here tomorrow so I will update then. Thank you all so much again.
 

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