Power Steering Fluid BLOWS out the Reservoir

Spun4Fun

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After i replaced the Hight pressure hose during the time i was doing some other work to the IP .etc as i was thinking that is the main issue, i started to notice Oil leak around the rack by the driver side and it started to get worse.

I cleaned it up pretty good and good and had a helper turn the wheel back and forth all the way on each direct . I found out that the oil seems to build up and get pressurized causing it to BLOW out the Reservoir breathing hole.

Do i need to pull the pump out and rebuild it ? Rock Auto offer a kit or there's an air in system (i think we cycled the Pump plenty) Not sure what could cause that .
 

Clb

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Be more specific in detail of whats going on first.
Sounds like over filled, mis matched lines, restricted hoses.

What "rack"?
Check the high pressures check valve gizmo?
 

Macrobb

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If your engine was running while cranking it back and forth, you have a problem.
If your engine was /off/ while cranking it back and forth... That's typical.
I'm not exactly sure why, but there's something with the design. If you've got a 'full' PS system, shut the engine off, and crank it one way in particular... it will spray fluid all over the place.
I think the problem is a lack of open area in the reservoir myself - there's no area for it to go.
 

Spun4Fun

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Be more specific in detail of whats going on first.
Sounds like over filled, mis matched lines, restricted hoses.

What "rack"?
Check the high pressures check valve gizmo?

What's going is when the pump warms up, I start driving then park the truck i notice PS fluid coming from the vent cap

The line I replaced is the short line ( high pressure) line and it was the same diameter 800-1500 PSi as listed by Rock Auto

Rack .. I meant the steering box

I thought I originally over filled it but I made sure I didn't .

When you say restricted Hose .. which one I also see a rubber hose on the back of it

High pressure check valve !
 

Spun4Fun

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If your engine was running while cranking it back and forth, you have a problem.
If your engine was /off/ while cranking it back and forth... That's typical.
I'm not exactly sure why, but there's something with the design. If you've got a 'full' PS system, shut the engine off, and crank it one way in particular... it will spray fluid all over the place.
I think the problem is a lack of open area in the reservoir myself - there's no area for it to go.


Yes while the Eng was running , also it had the right amount of oil but it started to make whining sound like it was low on oil but it went away after it puked some out the vent

Pretty strange shitz
 

Macrobb

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You had air in the system somewhere. Those reservoirs are way too small for what's needed, honestly.
Just keep bleeding and filling, and if it *continues* to do this, then you might have a problem.

One truck I had, I got so fed up with the stupid thing, I cut the top off the reservoir neck and installed 6" of gasoline filler hose, then installed the reservoir neck into that.

This effectively lengthened the reservoir neck by 6", increasing the total volume of Type F ATF(Remember - these trucks use Type F instead of PS fluid - it's thicker) in the system.
Worked fine!
 

Spun4Fun

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You had air in the system somewhere. Those reservoirs are way too small for what's needed, honestly.
Just keep bleeding and filling, and if it *continues* to do this, then you might have a problem.

One truck I had, I got so fed up with the stupid thing, I cut the top off the reservoir neck and installed 6" of gasoline filler hose, then installed the reservoir neck into that.

This effectively lengthened the reservoir neck by 6", increasing the total volume of Type F ATF(Remember - these trucks use Type F instead of PS fluid - it's thicker) in the system.
Worked fine!


Uhaaaa . I used PS fluid not Transmission fluid

Thanks for pointing that out :Thumbs Up
 

Clb

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Thats also the issue with the valve squeeling (often times) ....thin fluid.
Any old hose may swell up and plug up.( i would think the return) by what you said about building up pressure.
+1 on air issues.
 

Spun4Fun

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Thats also the issue with the valve squeeling (often times) ....thin fluid.
Any old hose may swell up and plug up.( i would think the return) by what you said about building up pressure.
+1 on air issues.


Correct , I replaced the pressure hose but not the return .

I tried to get as much air as possible out of the system.

So I guess I have to replace the PS return line as well ?
 

The Bus

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I changed out a PS pump on a 06 Taurus about a year ago when it started blowing out fluid. Spun the old pump and heard a noise that didn't quite sound right. So I bough a new pump and put it and bled the system like I read about and watched on You Tube with out luck.

I researched these pumps Ford used and found all kinds of issues regarding air. Took forever to get the air out manually or so I thought. About a year later, it started blowing out fluid again.

So I tried to manually purge air out again with no luck at all this go around.

By the way, checked for leaks and found none on both occasions. Kind of a pain with rack and pinion.

So I took my brake bleeder (Hand Vacuum Pump w/Reservoir) and applied vacuum to the reservoir. A couple of old school mechanics said it was the best and most effect way to deal with this problem when I researched it. If you had a leak in the system, it would not hold vacuum. If you had air trapped, it would pull it out (burping). If air was suspended in the fluid, it would draw it out.

Pumped it up to about 15 HG (no more) and left it until it BURPED (about five minutes later). Did this over and over again (about three times) until fluid was being drawn up the vacuum tub (clear vinyl) towards the vacuum reservoir without air bubbles suspended in the fluid. Each time vacuum draw was easier and fluid moved faster up the vacuum tube. The sign of no more suspended air!

There is no need, nor do you want to pull fluid into the vacuum reservoir due to the size of the reservoir (you'll pull it right into the hand pump). You want to keep that volume available in case it burps fluid and air out.

Started it up and no more fluid blowing out the top. The whining is all but gone, unless you turn it hard to one side which is normal.

These pumps are pain in the backside if you get air trapped within the system or suspended in the fluid.

I cannot tell you how beneficial it has been to have an assortment of rubber stoppers w/hole and a manual vacuum pump when it comes to bleeding air out of reservoir systems.

I purchased several size rubber stoppers with holes in the center at widgetco.com a couple of years ago for this reason. http://www.widgetco.com/epdm-rubber-stoppers
 

Spun4Fun

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I changed out a PS pump on a 06 Taurus about a year ago when it started blowing out fluid. Spun the old pump and heard a noise that didn't quite sound right. So I bough a new pump and put it and bled the system like I read about and watched on You Tube with out luck.

I researched these pumps Ford used and found all kinds of issues regarding air. Took forever to get the air out manually or so I thought. About a year later, it started blowing out fluid again.

So I tried to manually purge air out again with no luck at all this go around.

By the way, checked for leaks and found none on both occasions. Kind of a pain with rack and pinion.

So I took my brake bleeder (Hand Vacuum Pump w/Reservoir) and applied vacuum to the reservoir. A couple of old school mechanics said it was the best and most effect way to deal with this problem when I researched it. If you had a leak in the system, it would not hold vacuum. If you had air trapped, it would pull it out (burping). If air was suspended in the fluid, it would draw it out.

Pumped it up to about 15 HG (no more) and left it until it BURPED (about five minutes later). Did this over and over again (about three times) until fluid was being drawn up the vacuum tub (clear vinyl) towards the vacuum reservoir without air bubbles suspended in the fluid. Each time vacuum draw was easier and fluid moved faster up the vacuum tube. The sign of no more suspended air!

There is no need, nor do you want to pull fluid into the vacuum reservoir due to the size of the reservoir (you'll pull it right into the hand pump). You want to keep that volume available in case it burps fluid and air out.

Started it up and no more fluid blowing out the top. The whining is all but gone, unless you turn it hard to one side which is normal.

These pumps are pain in the backside if you get air trapped within the system or suspended in the fluid.

I cannot tell you how beneficial it has been to have an assortment of rubber stoppers w/hole and a manual vacuum pump when it comes to bleeding air out of reservoir systems.

I purchased several size rubber stoppers with holes in the center at widgetco.com a couple of years ago for this reason. http://www.widgetco.com/epdm-rubber-stoppers



Yesterday i was doing more involved work to replace the front crank seal and decided to disconnect , clean and blow some air in the return line before i declare it bad. I noticed some crud had been blown out when i applied compressed air to clean it. I uses electrical pump so i removed all the old fluid which pre mixed between PS and Tranny fluid. I connected all the lines back and added fresh tranny fluid to the reservoir and it's been setting since yesterday as am waiting for the RTV by the Damper key way to cure before i start the truck.


Thanks for the heads up, When you say pull vacuum are you pulling git from the Vent breather hole?
 

The Bus

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This is what I used:
You must be registered for see images attach


I went with this set up so I could pull vacuum and cut off the source once I hit 15 hg. The release is on the side of the hand pump and you would not believe how many times you bump it and release vacuum. :( The second gauge is a vacuum one from Sears. You can find them at a lot of parts stores too.

Notice how small the reservoir cup is. This makes it a little tedious at times.

I use this normally for bleeding brakes, but I have found it useful for bleeding air out of anything with a reservoir. I even used it to draw out the air in the coolant system in a Mercury Sable.

I am working on a much larger set up using shop air and pneumatic vacuum pump to do large scale fluid exchanges.
 

riotwarrior

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This is what I used:
You must be registered for see images attach


I went with this set up so I could pull vacuum and cut off the source once I hit 15 hg. The release is on the side of the hand pump and you would not believe how many times you bump it and release vacuum. :( The second gauge is a vacuum one from Sears. You can find them at a lot of parts stores too.

Notice how small the reservoir cup is. This makes it a little tedious at times.

I use this normally for bleeding brakes, but I have found it useful for bleeding air out of anything with a reservoir. I even used it to draw out the air in the coolant system in a Mercury Sable.

I am working on a much larger set up using shop air and pneumatic vacuum pump to do large scale fluid exchanges.
I utilize a similar setup for doing brakes and prefilling a sterring box. I have an 8 or 9 qt vacuum/pressure tank that is amazing for this type of thing...I also do it with brakes.

Makes me think about my vacuum cooling filler....

But to prefill or flush a steering box I draw vacuum off return side of box and draw fluid into it from a clean reservior ...manually turning box locl to lock.

No need install box dry...

Those plugs are handy dandy eh lol.
 

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