Brainstorming

IDI87 said:

CDR?

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Crankcase Depression Regulator valve. It is the tuna can. Acts like a PCV valve on a gasser, keeps the interior of our engines from building up pressure.

I had to look it up, got one word correct out of three. If I were a baseball player, I would be a star, batting .333.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cdr...oLUAhURNpQKHdtADj0Q_AUIDCgD&biw=1266&bih=1459

Knuckledragger summed it up good

Knuckledragger said:

Compression Depression Release (going on memory alone, could be some other words altogether)
valve. It is the tuna can. Acts like a PCV valve on a gasser, keeps the interior of our engines from building up pressure.

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Cool. I always wondered what exactly that thing was.

Definitely check the cdr and turbo shaft before tearing in to it.

homelessduck said:

Definitely check the cdr and turbo shaft before tearing in to it.

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Ill do that. I'm going to fix the steering lock first and then I'll check these out

Shaft can be good and if an old banks with carbon seal it needs upgrade. They will move some oil.

typ4 said:

Shaft can be good and if an old banks with carbon seal it needs upgrade. They will move some oil.

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If shaft play is fine, what does a Banks turbo upgrade/reseal cost?

If it come to me its going to get a rebuild, same amount of work. 750.00 all in shipped back to you.

Does it smoke on startup? What color?

I'm going to still put timing and injectors at the top of the causes pile - these engines will burn engine oil cleanly with the 22.5:1 compression ratio.

You can get blue smoke from retarded timing easily enough. Black smoke(soot) is usually overfueling one way or another.

In a gasser, blue smoke means engine oil being burned... but gassers don't have the compression to run on engine oil by itself. IDIs do.

And, for a data point - My 88 was using about 1 quart per 50-100 miles before I rebuilt it. It was just burning it all. No smoke unless I gave it too much fueling before boost came up, and then it was black.

Might inquire about the turbo mod also

That's in that price.

So I had this exact same thing happen. Only I was burning white smoke and going through literaly, 1 qt every 100. Yes 100. Miles. I had been putting it off, putting it off, thinking it was just my injectors, but then I started hearing a knock and a sputter and then came my tax refund so here I am doing a complete rebuild. I found my #8 cylinder had a broken ring, but all my bearings looked great. Got the engine dropped off at the machine shop for some over bore love and then dug into my turbo.

1st off, my banks sidewinder didn't have an ID plate on it... So after many many hours researching these, and talking to banks I got a manufacturer part number for the entire turbo, the cartridge, and the housing. Fyi, don't screw up your cartridge, banks wants like 1300 for just a new cartridge. But anyway. You need to know exactly what turbo you have. Probably a TE06H, like 25A is what mine was. Find mamba on ebay, contact them to get rebuild kits for your turbo. All new seals and bearings and hotside and coldside piston rings. Like 80 bucks max. Know you have asuperback wheel or flat back. When reassembling, lube up back plate and o ring and put it on by hand and don't force it.

Anyway, my turbo was leaking like a sombich right behind compressor. Probably my worst oil leak problem. Was also told by banks by CDR might be bad, but I think I just replaced it too. Oh well, off for a new one of them too. But now I have new stanadyne G injectors, new bores and pistons, lower compression, and one of Typ4's splendid cams paired with a fresh turbo. Not together yet, but should run like a bute

I'm hoping I don't need a rebuild just yet. I haven't gotten to checking the turbo yet. I just barely started tearing into the steering column to replace the lock actuator.
Anyone know how to get the pivot pins out? the right side comes out really easy but the left one might as well be welded in. I even popped the spring out of the tilt just to take pressure off the pins. Otherwise I'd be done already........

Okay so I finally got it all apart and back together. 2 problems I'm having..... 1. It won't start I jump the solenoid and it runs I replaced the solenoid and it still needs to be jumped. 2 I can't get the switch to go back past off for accessory. That might just be me thinking of older fords..... Not sure what I did wrong.