Transmission removal help

IDI_Journeyman

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What's up guys, I got a 1985 F250 with a 7.3 IDI ats turbo with a ZF5. My DMF and TOB are making a lot of racket and my clutch is starting to slip so I figured it's time to replace it.

I bought a Exedy clutch kit from Rock auto with a single mass flywheel. Iv pulled a ZF5 before but not on a turbo idi. iv been hung up on something. I have 1 bell housing bolt that I can't pull because of the down pipe for the turbo is too close. And one top bell housing bolt that the actual turbo is blocking. How hard is it to remove the turbo? Iv never taken a turbo off before and I want to make sure I do it right. Any tips or help is appreciated. This website is truly a blessing
 

compressionignitionrules

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if you can pull those bolts back far enough to clear the threads when pulling the trans back, just tie wrap the bolts in that position. otherwise, if you are in California all fasteners shoudl be no problem, and just remove the downpipe. if you like your sawzall just cut the pipe and use a straight bandclamp to reattach on installation.
 

ISPKI

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I had to remove my y pipes when I swapped mine from e4od to zf5, but mine is NA.
 

IDI_Journeyman

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Wishing I could change my username now haha il give it the good ol American try again and see if I can pull those bolts out. Just isn't a lot of room to work with
 

shawn deere

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I have an ats turbo
Was able to get enough extentions and a swivel on them top bell housing bolts from the bottom.
Ive also removed the turbo and found it less than fun. Theres two bolts on the bottom of the turbo that go up through the pedestal - takes a 9/16 not so fun to get to. Then the oil feed has two olives in it that will need to be replaced while off or will start leaking due to being disturbed. Then you have the exhaust up pipe to deal with. Stubby 9/16 will clear the fire wall.

When you install the new fly wheel dont forget to seal the crank bolts! Lol
 

shawn deere

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If i were to do it again i would use blue lock tite. Itll keep the bolts from backing out and should seal up. There is probably more than one thing a guy could use. High temp silicon might be an option, but i dont know if itll help the bolts stay put.
The crank holes look like they are sealed from the crank case, but it lies. I tried cleaning the holes with break clean and it drained into the crank case....
also, my down pipe was aftermarket - a factory one might be more in the way of them bell housing bolts
 

Skii

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What's up guys, I got a 1985 F250 with a 7.3 IDI ats turbo with a ZF5. My DMF and TOB are making a lot of racket and my clutch is starting to slip so I figured it's time to replace it.

I bought a Exedy clutch kit from Rock auto with a single mass flywheel. Iv pulled a ZF5 before but not on a turbo idi. iv been hung up on something. I have 1 bell housing bolt that I can't pull because of the down pipe for the turbo is too close. And one top bell housing bolt that the actual turbo is blocking. How hard is it to remove the turbo? Iv never taken a turbo off before and I want to make sure I do it right. Any tips or help is appreciated. This website is truly a blessing

Journey,

This is my first time majorly tinkering with one of these engines, but I've found that taking the turbo off is not the hard part... Putting it back on while the engine was in the truck was a TOTAL. PAIN. But anyways, yea my tranny was no fun to get out. Couldn't access the bolts to release it from the crossmember. Eventually though I got er did. Now here I am with a truck with no engine or tranny lol. Doing complete over hall since I'm there
 

Skii

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Old if Id risk putting my usual antiseize on these knowing they leak through into crank case... Blue LT might be best bet
 

ISPKI

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I used blue loctite on my crank bolts. The torque spec is so low that I would have serious concerns about the bolts staying in long term. Ofc, loctite breaks down when exposed to high heat so I am not sure how the loctite holds up either. Regardless, ive put about 500miles with no leak.
 

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