The_88_lariat
Full Access Member
Does anyone know if the factort 94 idit down pipe will fit in a 1988 f250
94 idit into a 88 f250
- Thread starter The_88_lariat
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Yes it fits with a small modification. Look at the firewall on the passenger side where the down pipe fits. See the small firewall seam. That needs to be cut off or hammered or pressed up against the wall so you have a little more fitment room. some use a 2x4 and lever against the bell housing. Others fabricate a threaded spreader to move the steel. Seeing I'm the first to answer you can bet others will chime in how they "worked" this area.
you don't want a factory '93/'94 downpipe.they are crushed and restrict the exhaust flow hurting performance and increase egts.toss that one in the scrap pile.seriously.if you scored it for free,it's still not worth putting in your truck.do you have the ats 093 turbo/factory turbo in your '88? if so,banks makes a dp for those oem turbo's that isn't kinked half closed and to install it,you just follow Gary's instructions above.
The_88_lariat
Full Access Member
The truck originally had the banks turbo kit on it from the dealership the pre-sidewinder if you will I bought a 94 factory turbo motor that was complete turbo to oil pan and fan to flywheel. I'm taking a picture now I'm not sure which it is stand by
I usually make my own DP's
I grab a sawzaw, cut the pinch weld in 3 or more places.
PINCH WELD ONLY. go to far, and youre cutting into the cab.
I use a prybar and bend them twards the bottom of the truck.
there is also a heat shield that's riveted to the body that can be a pita.
I also took a 4" steel ball( a 2.2 lb sledge can work) welded to a piece of pipe I slam into the firewall to give me more room.
and it don't leave hammer marks.
for the factory R&D sells a 3" exhaust housing with half the downpipe.
if youre doing a engine swap, mock up and mark what needs work before you pull the current engine.
I have manipulated the hell out of my firewall, including removing some of the lower cowl and welding it back, and seam sealing.
makes it real nice to remove your turbo without removing IP and lines.
ive also found it made a tad bit more room, so I can change glow plugs with the turbo on.
also if its an auto, ask some of these autofreaks what needs to be cut off the trans.
I grab a sawzaw, cut the pinch weld in 3 or more places.
PINCH WELD ONLY. go to far, and youre cutting into the cab.
I use a prybar and bend them twards the bottom of the truck.
there is also a heat shield that's riveted to the body that can be a pita.
I also took a 4" steel ball( a 2.2 lb sledge can work) welded to a piece of pipe I slam into the firewall to give me more room.
and it don't leave hammer marks.
for the factory R&D sells a 3" exhaust housing with half the downpipe.
if youre doing a engine swap, mock up and mark what needs work before you pull the current engine.
I have manipulated the hell out of my firewall, including removing some of the lower cowl and welding it back, and seam sealing.
makes it real nice to remove your turbo without removing IP and lines.
ive also found it made a tad bit more room, so I can change glow plugs with the turbo on.
also if its an auto, ask some of these autofreaks what needs to be cut off the trans.
