Pistons for a rebuild

The_88_lariat

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I have read everywhere not to bore the motor out but I don't have a choice unless anyone on here would like to donate there credit card to me I can't do sleeves I'm already spending over 2 grand on everything and need to get my truck running and get back to work mahle seller .020 all the way to .040 the truck was a fleet truck for all its life I have to do something it's either bore over slightly or have a TON of blow by its a lose lose situation
 

laserjock

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I don't think anyone is trying to beat you up but what nobody wants to see is you put 2k in the motor and have it cavitate in a month. If you can't afford to sleeve it, maybe the best option would be to find a donor in better shape to start with. NA IDI motors can be had for around $500 or less in some places.

Just trying to present options.
 

The_88_lariat

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I understand that you guys aren't trying to beat me up And that's not what I meant by that but the cavitation would have already preseted it's self by now with the cylinder wall wear being almost .020 over if it gets bored .020 over than it will just be re rounded at .020
 

Knuckledragger

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laserjock is right, if you are not able to put up for sleeves, another block might be a cheaper answer. I do not believe there is any difference between turbo and N/A 7.3 blocks, everything is in the rotating mass.

Cavitaion is not a question of wear or time. It is physics. And it does not happen until it does. And it does not often give warning. Since the truck was a fleet truck it may have had very regular coolant changes, which is a very good thing to reduce the opportunity. We just see you rolling the dice in a potentially expensive gamble.
 

DaveBen

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There is no known test for cavitation. Your guess is as good as the next guy's...
 

yARIC008

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Most of us speak from experience. I rebult my engine, reinstalled, and had to take it all back out and sleeve it due to this. Trust me, if something is worth doing, its worth doing right. Drilling these cylinders out is not the right thing to do. You'll spend 2 grand and have no truck. At the VERY least, sleeve the last two cylinders towards the rear as those historically cavitate the quickest for whatever reason.
 

MTKirk

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I don't think anyone is trying to beat you up but what nobody wants to see is you put 2k in the motor and have it cavitate in a month. If you can't afford to sleeve it, maybe the best option would be to find a donor in better shape to start with. NA IDI motors can be had for around $500 or less in some places.

Just trying to present options.

THIS! Even without sleeves 2K most likely won't get your rebuild done, at least to any level of reliability. I spent over $1000 on the heads alone, probably around $4,000 total and did all the work myself (except machining) Find a running used engine with as much known history as you can, and you will be much better off.
 

laserjock

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A promar reman is only $3200. It's sleeved on all 8 holes and comes with a warranty. Just for a data point.
 

david85

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I was in the hole for $2800 CAD when I did mine (bored 30 thou over). $800 was just for the two reman heads I had to buy since mine couldn't be rebuilt in the time I needed.

And I'll add another vote for NOT boring out a 7.3. It won't pay off to take risks on stuff like this. Not only will the cylinder be thinner, but it will also flex more, causing a more violent cavitation event from normal use. Its not just less metal to eat through - it will eat through faster.
 
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