bought and engine now what

I recently blew a head gasket on my '88 and decided putting an engine in would be a better option. I bought a 94 idiT engine off of craigslist for $540 and want to redo the engine. i want to fully gasket the engine including head gasket and do studs while i'm in there (not building a race motor but i dont want anymore issues). I need yalls opinion on brand of gaskets anything else i should be doing while im in there best way to test for blow by, anything out of the ordinary this will be the first motor im taking apart and would like a bit of guidance before i dive head first into the deep end. All info will be appreciated greatly

first off, take the heads off, and inspect the short block.
i would be taking the heads to the machine shop for pressure test and a mag
post pictures of the pistons @ TDC,
pictures of the cylinders at BDC
and pull the thrust bearing on the main caps to check bearing wear.

we can help you WITH PICTURES

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...gine-build&highlight=finally+the+long+awaited

i was planing on redoing the heads i have a local guy that is really good and i want to avoid redoing the bottom end but it is what it is i haven't tore down the block yet and yes i will have all the pictures motor had 70,000k on it was a Disney service truck idk about hours though

Sounds like it was well maintained being a Disney rig. No matter what gaskets you end up using.. Never ever use a cork or rubber oil pan gasket. Too many members are purchasing gasket sets and find the oil pan gasket in the sets.. They never came with a gasket and the factory only used an rtv. They never leaked either. I use permatex ultra copper plus for every gasket I have installed the past 20 years with never a leak. Ever try to seal up a Chevy big or small block intake manifold front or back with those crappy rubber gaskets??? I wont use them and instead use plenty of rtv and never have a leak. Cleanlyness is your friend when using rtv. Brakclean does a fine job cleaning very well. No leftover residue or film. Felpro is a good name for gaskets as is Victor Reinz. Cortco is another good name.

i bought a cab and chassis last year 95k miles on it, but lots of run time, and it was very apparent when i saw the slugs.

here is another thread of what i went through to get my current block....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74105-RUHT-RHO-SHAGGY-94-7-3-dissassemble&highlight=

I only use perma dry gaskets and yea I'm concerned about what I will find once I'm in there I don't want to replace pistons I don't even know where or what kind to get I'm new at this old idi stuff.

luckily youre on a site that will help ya

My boss told me about yall he had an idi and convinced me to get one. I just need the correct guidance but I will start tear down tonight hopefully if not tomorrow and I will send all the pictures

Now if I have to replace a piston can I replace one or do I have to do all of them. And what's the best way to check for blow by to see if I should do rings

The_88_lariat said:

Now if I have to replace a piston can I replace one or do I have to do all of them. And what's the best way to check for blow by to see if I should do rings

Click to expand...

Well that would be a start and run before tear down and then maybe a comp test after that and a leakdown test too. ALL PRIOR TO TEAR DOWN....as there really is no other methods to use.

Depends on how chaheap you want to go...albeit if it is a true IDIT engine 1 good piston might be difficult to locate.

A set on the other hand would be easier however more costly too.

When you take apart engine do yourself a MOMSTROUSLY HUGE FAVOR......a box of good zip lock baggies...big and sandwich size. Mark bags..valve cover bolts put in box next bag in marked and so on...

If engine has serpentine pulleys keep pulleys and spacers in bags for each part...eg water pump pulley spacer and bolts...hence large bages...mark bags clearly both sides...hint mark baflg then put in parts

This helps you as a new recruite keep it all well organized and easy to locate.

JM7.3CW.....for now

Yea I have all of that I actually work at a shop I'm ther service manager and have always wanted to do a project like this I will have every and any tools nessisary I'm going to start to weld up a motor stand we don't have a big enough one here to hold the motor but yes organization is going to be the only saving me on the project

For the 93-94 1/2 7.3 turbo, the balance is different from all the other engines. It is an externally balanced engine. You cannot interchange harmonic balancers. And, the flex plate or flywheel is unique to this engine also. Other flywheels and balancers will bolt up, but the engine will shake.

Good luck,
JL

Ok well how do I re balance the motor I should be able to with a bit of machine work and a new flywheel plus the motor has a flexo late and torque converter and I'm going to have to put a clutch in my truck is 5 speed

JLtoolman said:

For the 93-94 1/2 7.3 turbo, the balance is different from all the other engines. It is an externally balanced engine. You cannot interchange harmonic balancers. And, the flex plate or flywheel is unique to this engine also. Other flywheels and balancers will bolt up, but the engine will shake.

Good luck,
JL

Click to expand...

Is this true? Is the balancer different from an auto to a manual?

A flexplate is different from a flywheel i would have to get aftermarket