10 speed eaton fuller or road ranger behind a 7.3 IDI has it been done
- Thread starter 88IDImattman
- Start date
I'd like better this setup in a truck
......screamin demon included
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3gZGUInd4
Damn...that's good info...now I'm thinking about getting one of these...DAMN u Robert!
Ok *** a straight shift trans....meaning just like a motorcycle? I'm not sure...I'd be flip flop on one of these, since you cannot like select from say R-2nd for no load starts skip gears if you wanted for some reason....Tell me more about this magical tranmission...
IIRC that's called sequential shift gear box....
In big truck speak, that means its all in one pattern and its not a ranger, i.e. no air split levers to have to flip, although you REALLY have to keep up with what gate you just came out of and which one you are aiming for ( i think there's a slight offset and not a straight elongated H to help with that)
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
Exactly. In the 7 speed spicers there is no repeating pattern. NO high and low range splitter. You never repeate the sequence to shift higher gears.
In a typical big rig transmission, you repeat the sequence. Ie: Got to low (which is all the way towards the driver, and back towards the back of the cab) Then shift through to first (which is up towards the dash, and to the left one gate.) Second is back towards the cab straight back from second, then Third is up towards the dash, and all the way to the right, then fourth is straight back towards the cab from third.
Once you go through that, you flick the big air selector on the FRONT of the shifter, and pull it out of fourth gear.
Now, depending on what model, you either put the shifter back in low (10 speed, 15 speed, rt6613, etc) or back in first gear (new style 8, 9, 10, 13 and 18) and contunie through the same shift sequence until you hit maximum speed limit or top gear.
To complicate things even more...you have a little button on the SIDE of the shifter.
In an 8LL, and 15 speed, these are deep reduction. The button is BLUE Meaning you can DROP 1/2 a gear ONCE in the LOW side only.
In a 13 speed with a RED button, these allow you to split the top gears in half. Meaning 5-6-7-8 are splittable to a HIGHER RATIO. Meaning if you are screaming in 5th gear, but 6th is too much for the engine to pull, you can leave in in 5th and push the button forward...gaining about 250 RPM. then when you are ready for 6th, in one swoop, pull the button back to direct and shift to 6th...you just gained another 250 RPM. This only works in the HIGH side only.
In an 18 speed, with a GREY button...you can split EVERY gear in the high AND low side. 9 gears with 9, 1/2 gears is 18 speeds.
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
OH! to FURTHER complicate matters, the RTO and RTOO series had the LAST two gears int eh low and high side reversed. Meaning that third and fourth gears were reversed than the typical RT series.
That's how you can tell if an older transmission is an RTO (overdrive) or RT(direct) without getting tag numbers or a line sheet.
That's how you can tell if an older transmission is an RTO (overdrive) or RT(direct) without getting tag numbers or a line sheet.
1400 is grunting a tad low Torque peak is around 1700. You really dont want to lug it down below that. This is a mid range engine, not a low rpm engine.
Oh ok...so basically no different than ZF 6sp other than an additional gear...it's not push forward to shift up....pull back to shift down sequentially like a motorcycle as in my first question.
You can go 2-4-6-7 7-5-3-2 if you chose too not 2-3-4-5-6-7 7-6-5-4-3-2 so to speak
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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I often have to drive 8LLs and the ones we have are made to shift in two completely different patterns; some are a plain old normal "H" pattern; the others are a "horse-shoe" pattern, meaning 3rd is where 4th should be and 4th is where 3rd should be.
BOTH styles of these are labeled "8LL" on the dash sticker, with the appropriate shift-pattern diagrams pictured.
ALL of them have the deep=reduction splitter --- and --- although it is not shown in the shift-progression picture, they all also can be shifted into the "low" position when in "HIGH" range; this little feature is very handy when rounding corners at a light or turning onto a side-road.
Although they are supposedly 8-speed transmissions, I have been able to find at least 15 usable forward gears and 3 reverses.
The 8LL, however, is NOT a good choice for a highway truck; they are meant for dump-trucks, log-trucks, and such.
The gear teeth are HUGE and destruction-proof, but do not lend themselves to casual shifting; if one "misses" a gear, more often than not, stopping and completely starting over is necessary to get things back on track.
No matter how experienced the driver, after driving anything else, one must re-learn how to shift one of these.
Sometimes, I may have occasion to drive first one truck and then another, back and forth, one being an 8LL H-pattern and the other being an 8LL "horse-shoe" pattern; you have to keep your wits about you, that's for sure.
BOTH styles of these are labeled "8LL" on the dash sticker, with the appropriate shift-pattern diagrams pictured.
ALL of them have the deep=reduction splitter --- and --- although it is not shown in the shift-progression picture, they all also can be shifted into the "low" position when in "HIGH" range; this little feature is very handy when rounding corners at a light or turning onto a side-road.
Although they are supposedly 8-speed transmissions, I have been able to find at least 15 usable forward gears and 3 reverses.
The 8LL, however, is NOT a good choice for a highway truck; they are meant for dump-trucks, log-trucks, and such.
The gear teeth are HUGE and destruction-proof, but do not lend themselves to casual shifting; if one "misses" a gear, more often than not, stopping and completely starting over is necessary to get things back on track.
No matter how experienced the driver, after driving anything else, one must re-learn how to shift one of these.
Sometimes, I may have occasion to drive first one truck and then another, back and forth, one being an 8LL H-pattern and the other being an 8LL "horse-shoe" pattern; you have to keep your wits about you, that's for sure.
88IDImattman
Full Access Member
so the RTO6610 looks like a winner to me i just finished reading a whole write up on another webpage about a guy that put one in a jeep the size wasnt that much larger than stock or at least it didnt appear to be now its pricing parts an searching for a possible donor ....cant wait to get this ball rolling i think it will be fun ..now i just gotta do some research on gear ratio's an figure out what the best tire size will be to work with the 10 speed to give me optimum mpg's
88IDImattman
Full Access Member
ok so i spent some time looking at the gear vendor page tonight seems pretty kool is less of a job to install got to remember the 5000 mile fluid change on it an all then i got tot the price WOW !!! ...........thats alot for that small a unit isnt it ????................
also i am wondering if anyone can figure out what the RPM's would be if i did the RTO6610 with my 410 rear at say 60 mph running a 19.5" rim size ....currently my truck runs 2300 RPM at 60mph ...........so what would it be with the 10 speed ??? .....Im really looking at all options as i try an make a decision about the project ...i know i ask alot of questions but knowledge is power an when i set to doing this i want to do it correct not half ass it
also i am wondering if anyone can figure out what the RPM's would be if i did the RTO6610 with my 410 rear at say 60 mph running a 19.5" rim size ....currently my truck runs 2300 RPM at 60mph ...........so what would it be with the 10 speed ??? .....Im really looking at all options as i try an make a decision about the project ...i know i ask alot of questions but knowledge is power an when i set to doing this i want to do it correct not half ass it
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
The RTO 6610 has a final OD ratio of 0.80:1
A ZF S5-47 has a final OD ratio of 0.77:1
They are fairly comparable.
With a 225/70R19.5, and 4.10's your truck will be turning about 2075RPM
With 245/70R19.5's she will spin 2000 RPM
With 265/70R19.5's it will turn about 1940RPM
With 285/70R19.5's it will spin 1880RPM
All that is based on the 0.80:1 OD at 60 MPH.
Keep in mind that the ZFS5-47 weighs 180 pounds...and the RTO 6610 weighs 370 pounds. It's over double the weight, larger in size, requires air to run and will have a MUCH higher rotating resistance rating than the ZF.
If you are looking for something to get MPG's out of...this isn't it. If you are looking for a major cool factor, and the ability to pull almost anything way more easily that a straight 5 speed truck wouldn't dream of pulling...than this is your route.
But I SERIOUSLY doube you will gain ANY MPG's with this conversion. Just my .02 cents.
A ZF S5-47 has a final OD ratio of 0.77:1
They are fairly comparable.
With a 225/70R19.5, and 4.10's your truck will be turning about 2075RPM
With 245/70R19.5's she will spin 2000 RPM
With 265/70R19.5's it will turn about 1940RPM
With 285/70R19.5's it will spin 1880RPM
All that is based on the 0.80:1 OD at 60 MPH.
Keep in mind that the ZFS5-47 weighs 180 pounds...and the RTO 6610 weighs 370 pounds. It's over double the weight, larger in size, requires air to run and will have a MUCH higher rotating resistance rating than the ZF.
If you are looking for something to get MPG's out of...this isn't it. If you are looking for a major cool factor, and the ability to pull almost anything way more easily that a straight 5 speed truck wouldn't dream of pulling...than this is your route.
But I SERIOUSLY doube you will gain ANY MPG's with this conversion. Just my .02 cents.
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
OH, stock 235/85R16 tires with 4.10:1 ratio rear with a ZF 5, puts you at about 2000 RPM at 60 MPH. Just to compare against.
Coyote_Red
Full Access Member
I tried to read this quickly at work, and well, I am going to have to read this when I have time to decipher everything.
