SD perforemance brakes?

Does anyone know a good set of brake rotors to put on these trucks?

I need to replace my OEM front rotors with something that will stop great and not warp everytime I haul something heavy.

I've looked on the net but to many choices. Does someone have some knowledge to share?

Part of the problem with warped rotors, is KEEPING YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL after you have come to a complete stop.

Your front brakes provide something like 70-80 percent of your stopping power and thats a LOT of heat. As soon as the truck comes to a stop, put it in neutral and either use the parking brake, or the trailer brakes.

The reason is you want to take the pressure off the main pads so that they do not HOLD the heat into a small patch of the rotor, while the rest of the rotor cools down. This leads to warping.

Ford_Forgotton said:

Part of the problem with warped rotors, is KEEPING YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL after you have come to a complete stop.

Your front brakes provide something like 70-80 percent of your stopping power and thats a LOT of heat. As soon as the truck comes to a stop, put it in neutral and either use the parking brake, or the trailer brakes.

The reason is you want to take the pressure off the main pads so that they do not HOLD the heat into a small patch of the rotor, while the rest of the rotor cools down. This leads to warping.

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WOW

I learn something new everyday!

Thanks Daryl

Yeah, I learned that about a year ago and make a habit of getting my foot off the brake after long hard stops. It makes sense really if you think about it. Those cooling fins (vented disc brakes) only really work when the truck is MOVING, but once you stop and keep your foot on the pedal, your literally forcing that heat back into the rotors.

Ford_Forgotton said:

Yeah, I learned that about a year ago and make a habit of getting my foot off the brake after long hard stops. It makes sense really if you think about it. Those cooling fins (vented disc brakes) only really work when the truck is MOVING, but once you stop and keep your foot on the pedal, your literally forcing that heat back into the rotors.

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Little thread hijack here:

Daryl,

I have heard that the rotors that have the slots and have also been drilled are dangerously weak? Kinda makes sense to me. You have removed quite a bit of metal?

Any knowledge?

Thanks, Tom

.

kwazyca said:

I have heard that the rotors that have the slots and have also been drilled are dangerously weak? Kinda makes sense to me. You have removed quite a bit of metal?.

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Makes sense to me too. Slotted and cross drilled rotors im sure dissapate heat GREAT, but only when moving. Plus, your right, less material to abosrb what heat *IS* being created.

Most slotted/crossdrills that Im familiar with are usually heavily treated and use special brake pads and actually work BETTER the hotter they get.

In a diesel truck application however, I personally would be a bit skiddish. Its one thing to have internal fins between each rotor face (but a solid face) and completely another to drill out the rotorface and add slots to it also.

Another thing to keep in mind is use your gears even thou you have a rotten juicer pull it down to second gear if the rpms get low enough use first. Good brake pads and calipers that slide properly help too. Front rotors shouldn't be turned because more meat gets removed faster they heat up easier they warp.

The brake linings and rotors should match ie if the brake pads are too hard they cut into the rotors or if they are too soft they wear out faster. I have been trying Raybestos brake pads along with a few other people and we have come to the conclusion they are the best.

As far as brands of Rotors, I have heard good things about Napa's aftermarket rotors for our trucks.

rkbrown said:

As far as brands of Rotors, I have heard good things about Napa's aftermarket rotors for our trucks.

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Thanks for the heads up. I'll check with NAPA.

Lots of good info floating around. What about ceramic pads? Any thoughts on that.

The ceramic pads are too hard they groove the rotors you are better off with a better semi metalic. I thought about ceramic pads but I was told they are too hard they will wear the rotor out too quick.

I did alot of researching brakes because I was and still thinking about going back to a F-350 cab and chassis 4x4 a older truck (92-97) that still runs disk drums. These trucks rely on the front brakes alot so I was looking into the best performing brake pads and largest rotors.

The second thing to look into is get some kind of exhaust brake if possible.

Pacific I'm running the carbon metallic pads from autozone on the front of mine They work pretty good don't have any problems warping rotors though can't really comment on how fast they eat rotors though since mine have only been on there for about 10k They stop it rather well the rear shoes are whatever the previous owner had on there and once adjusted right they help significantly. I've had a 13k trailer behind the truck that the trailer brake wire was broken on and the truck stopped it acceptably with just the truck's brakes.

From what I've found on my ranger with the same brand of pads is that the rotors were good for about 2 sets of pads before they were below spec. The pads there lasted about 35-40k of commuter vehicle driving, read 30-0-45-10-30-2-60-0 in the span of about a mile so they never got a chance to cool off and generally the rotors started to warp when they were getting under spec so I knew it was time to change them then.

I have heard the same that Pacific stated. Ceramic pads are not good for our rotors, semi metallic are supposedly much better. I just replaced the front pads on my truck and used semi metallics that I bought from O'Reilly's. They seem fine. The rotors were in good shape. The truck has almost 80,000 miles on it and this was the first brake pad replacement.

Pacific said:

The ceramic pads are too hard they groove the rotors you are better off with a better semi metalic. I thought about ceramic pads but I was told they are too hard they will wear the rotor out too quick.

I did alot of researching brakes because I was and still thinking about going back to a F-350 cab and chassis 4x4 a older truck (92-97) that still runs disk drums. These trucks rely on the front brakes alot so I was looking into the best performing brake pads and largest rotors.

The second thing to look into is get some kind of exhaust brake if possible.

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i agree every vehicle i have ever serviced with ceramic pads grooved the doo doo out of the rotor if they had been on there long... i got a set when they first came out and put them on a car and i hated them, personally i think they don't stop as good.. i think this is because they are so hard and don't "grab" the rotor as well, i think softer brake pads stop a lot better (and are most of the time the cheapest ones) than harder ones because they can provide the most friction but they don't last as long and make break dust like crazy, but they are a heck of a lot easier on your rotors than others.. i guess you just have to find one you like and suits your needs the best.. personally i use the cheap napa pads i worked at napa for about 5 yrs a long time ago they don't last a terribly long time but as far as stopping and taking it easy on the rotor i think they are a good choice

Ceramic pads from NAPA: CMX - 7625 UP Disc brake pad $73.99

Cross drilled and slotted rotors from NAPA: PR - 86914R UP Performance Rotor $129.00

The person I got this from said "no pulling or squeaks or pulses. Nothing. Just smooth, straight stopping." He seemed to be very happy with them.

I don't know if they're weaker or not though.